Reader Forum

Here is what he told us: The problem isn’t the bolt stop. It’s the bolt stop release. Needle nose pliers and a tweaking of the release inward or outward is the cure. That’s all there is to it, folks. During Mr. Horn’s extensive corrective actions the tweaking evidently took place. Whether such is the case or not, your .270 now works and the 7mm Magnum of Mr. Vargas can be cured. This assumes, of course, it is indeed a Model 700. Thanks to Mr. Horn for a solid answer.

Note, whoever told you Remington changes the identity of their Model 700 rifles is seriously wrong. Regardless of caliber, grade, finish, long action or short, a Remington 700 is still as Model 700. Now, it’s our turn if you please. Would you provide the source(s) for the factory specifications on the Model 700 bolt, its receiver fit and the gauge used to assure proper headspace when fitting the bolt to the action? We’d love to add them to our tech files. Daniel P.

Horn Huron, SD Stevens Shotgun I was given a .410 Stevens M-59A and was told it did not function. I disassembled the gun to see if any parts were missing or broken. The only problem I found was a worn lifter pin hole. The pin did not look worn but I suspect the pin may have been replaced trying to reduce the problem with the worn pin hole. I drilled the hole in the lifter just enough to clean up the worn hole, then drilled the lifter housing to the same size and made anew pin.

Upon assembling the gun the bolt would not close as the lifter would bottom out in the lifter housing. After many adjustments the gun functioned again except the last empty would not eject, so I put anew ejector pin in as the old one showed signs of wear. The gun will now function but the bolt has to be operated slowly at first and then with a little extra speed just before the shell hits the ejector. Was this gun originally designed with a loosely fitted lifter pin? William D.

Puls Troy, MI We have real doubts the Stevens ever left the factory with a wobbly pin or ever had one deliberately designed in. Confirm that with a note to John Callahan, Savage Stevens Historian, Westfield, MA 01085. Sears Ranger Shotgun I have a Sears Roebuck Ranger 16 gauge pump shotgun, stamped "102- 25" and "3641." These are the only markings on the gun. The chamber will not hold shotshells while loading as the catch doesn’t work, rendering this pump a single shot.

Can you turn me to a source of parts and a schematic so I can make repairs? Karl Pritt Golts, MD The 102-25 was made by Stevens and marketed as a Model 520A. Jack

First Gunshop (jackfirstgun.com, may have parts but shows no schematic. Write to John Callahan, Savage-Stevens Historian, Westfield, MA 01085 regarding the schematic. He may be able to help. Sear-Disconnector Relationship In the October 2013 edition of American Gunsmith, you show two pictures on the M1911 pistol where the disconnector is in the sear BACK- WARDS! As pictured, this arrangement will not work. As I have several 1911s, I know whereof I speak. Ed Rathbun Carson City, Author RK Campbell responds.

You are correct. Good catch and sorry for this. In setting up the photo shoot and paying attention to focus and depth the disconnect was overturned several times. Drill And Tap Advice Is there any hope for a shotgun with two 5-40 holes drilled into the chamber? Apparently, this was an attempt to install a scope mount. The holes are 1/4" and 3/4" from the end of the chamber. It’s a 12 gauge Mossberg 200K shotgun. Can I do anything (shooting wise) with it or should I part it out?

I specified "shooting wise" because I thought you might mention "door stop" or "paper weight" as a possible use. David Drilled into the chamber? We hope that doesn’t include the forcing cone which can extend into the barrel itself. Our hope being truth, try installing two 5-40 blind screws. You must be certain they do not intrude into the chamber and are flush with it inside. A drop of red Loctite on both screws will forever prevent them from backing out.

Ithaca Model 37 I have, for the second time, an Ithaca Model 37 12 gauge Deer Slayer on the bench with a stuck spent shotshell in the chamber. The first time the customer brought it in with the problem I was able to disassemble it and put it back in service. The chamber had a slight amount of corrosion which I polished out. To make sure that it did not happened again, I test fired the gun using field loads, then reduced loads and a slug load with excellent results.

I wanted to compare the slug load to a copper solid for accuracy. Well, the copper solid was high ten inches but the breechblock and the slide are locked up in the receiver face. I am unable to free the breechblock and slide. It would almost seem that both extractors have wedged itself against the chamber. I’ve tried to lightly tap a fiberglass rod against the shotshell case from the muzzle with no success. Gary Was the slug load a reload? Any sign of cratering or flow-back in the primer?

If so, we think you’re faced with a badly swollen but, fortunately, spent hull. It would be best if you could remove the barrel but that doesn’t sound likely despite the fact it would allow removal from the breech end. As things apparently stand, you’ll be limited to a frontal assault. Select a hard wood dowel long enough and of an OD that will allow it to seat solidly inside and against the formerly-primed end of the hull.

Using nothing more than a nylon wedge, which you will have to fabricate, try and disengage the extractor(s) from the receiver. A short length of toothpick will maintain any gap as you begin to tap on the muzzle end of the dowel. The tapping will undoubtedly increase to something short of pounding but, eventually, the bolt should move back enough and you’ll be able to work on the stuck case from the rear. We know. This type of attack will result in a bits and pieces removal.

The plus side is all the time spent undoing what your customer has caused on more than one occasion and how much you can charge for your time to fix this. Add to this, laudably, a Model 37 that can be returned to service. AG