Mossberg 42M Restoration

The Mossberg Model 42M is a Mannlicher-stocked variation of the Model 42 bolt action .22 caliber rimfire rifle with a seven-shot box magazine that was manufactured from 1940 through 1944. There were many variations of the model 42 manufactured between 1935 and the end of production of this model in 1949. They include target, sporter, heavy barreled, left-handed, and even smooth bored versions with a Targo tube.

Targo was a trap shooting system made by Mossberg with a clay target launcher attached to the barrel of the gun. The shooter launched the clay target himself and then engaged it with a .22 shot load. It was introduced in 1941 and dis- This WW2 era trainer shows over 70 years of use with worn finish and bluing. continued in 1942 after the Second World War broke out.

The 42M variation has a twopiece Mannlicher-style stock with the forend extended by the use of a sheet metal piece allowing a wooden extension to be added to the stock. These were used as training rifles during WW2 and a slight modification of the model (42MB) was sent as part of the Lend-Lease Program as rimfire trainers to the British. With the large number of variations, restoration requires some research to identify the model you have so it can be restored with the proper sights and accessories.

The rifle I had to restore was very well used with little bluing left on the barrel and a very beat up stock with many dents and scratches. After disassembly the trigger group was removed, disassembled, and cleaned. The barrel and receiver were stripped and polished to remove the abuse of many years of service and prepped for rebluing. I reblued the metal parts using Brownells Dicropan IM (082-008-032WB) which is a hot water "Belgian Blue" system.

Brownells Dicropan IM gives the small and home shop a method of bluing that gives professional results.

Disassembly of the trigger group is quick and easy. The center screw adjusts trigger engagement. that is basically an accelerated rust bluing method that I have used for years because it is easy, much more durable than cold bluing, extremely adaptable to the small shop, and gives me excellent results. If you area hobbyist or run a small shop and don’t have a hot caustic salts bluing system this is a good way for you to get professional results.

Finding original parts and sights for restoration of any old firearm is a continuing challenge. Parts houses like Gun Parts (Numrich), auction sites like Gunbroker.com, estate auctions, and even using Internet search engines such as Google and Duck Duck- Go can lead to the parts you need. American Gunsmith Reader Services 1.

The old bluing is stripped from the part and then degreased and placed in boiling distilled water to heat it. Once heated, remove the part from the boiling water and allow the water to evaporate. The hot and now dry part is then coated with the Dicropan IM. A flash of rust appears on the part and that is carded off using a soft wire wheel or 0000 steel wool. This is repeated until you have achieved the color you want. The part is then coated with oil and left overnight.

Generally speaking, five or six repetitions will produce a good black color and 10-15 will produce a deep black. The number of coats is determined by the alloy of the steel and the finish you want. Moving on to the stock, the old finish was gone in several places and what remained was spotted with paint. I removed that remaining finish using a paint stripper.

It is generally not recommended that you sand a stock that is being refin- It looks great but will it function, how is that trigger, and will it shoot? ished as it is very easy to round over edges and reduce enough wood that it leaves things like the buttplate and trigger guard standing higher than the wood. If you must sand the stock, do it as lightly as possible. I would normally have sanded out the dents and scratches in the wood but, in this case, I was trying to let the gun show its age and use.

The idea was to refinish the gun without it looking refinished. I left the dents and dings and stained the stock with a waterbased walnut stain. When it was dry, I buffed the entire stock with 0000 steel wool. This evened out the color. After wiping it down I coated it with boiled linseed oil mixed 50/50 with turpentine. The linseed oil provides a military-style finish and the turpentine allows the oil to penetrate the wood and dry faster than linseed oil alone.

Each coat was allowed to dry for 24 hours and hand rubbed with 0000 steel wool before the next coat was applied. After reassembly I took the gun to my local range to see how well it shot. It showed very good accuracy considering I was using iron sights, my 74-year-old eyes, and inexpensive promotional ammunition. I am pretty darned impressed with this seven-decades-old rifle. The action is smooth, the feeding reliable, and the accuracy is very good even with promotional ammunition.

I just have to wonder what the rifle might be capable of with a good scope and match grade ammunition. AG Even with old eyes, iron sights, and promotional ammunition, this old war horse can still do pretty well at 50 yards. Squirrels and raccoons raiding my bird feeders are in grave danger from this old Mossberg 42M.