Making Holes Disappear

The title of this probably should read "Making Ugly Holes Disappear" because that’s what we’re actually covering in this article. Ugly holes can be on any firearm, such as long guns where they were drilled and tapped for either scope mounts or a sight of some sort. Over time of installing bases, sights, and later removing them, sometimes these holes can become unsightly and require repair. For files, eight-inch second cut and smooth cut, six-inch smooth cut, and four-inch #2 Swiss pillar file.

Also needed, a file cleaner and chalk. Gunsmithing often requires things like drilling and tapping a hole or milling a slot, but here we are going to partially do the opposite. If you have an older firearm that is in the need of refinishing, this is the perfect time for this restoration work. This isn’t limited to older firearms as newer firearms may require this as well.

Recently, I had a customer bring in a fairly new Henry Repeating Arms Golden Boy that "someone" had messed up the scope base holes appearance and threads. Some gunsmiths might prefer to weld up the holes but such a fix is drastic on a barrel or receiver with good bluing. This repair procedure can be done on blind holes, through holes, blued areas, or—best of all—a firearm needing to be refinished. Top Bottom To begin, determine the size of the hole (#6, #8, #10, etc.) and thread pitch.

If the hole isn’t threaded, it needs to be for optimal results. Chase the threads with the appropriate tap as needed, especially if they are "buggered up." Having a hole with good, clean threads, use General Tools 196 Hand Reamer/ Countersink or the equivalent to cut a countersink into each hole. Cut the countersink deep enough to allow an oval head scope base screw to nicely engage it when screwed down completely. With the hole now prepped, plug it.

I use a Weaver-style oval head scope base screw cut to size as necessary so that the oval head completely bottoms out in the countersink. An-

neal the screw prior to installation. I do this on a scrap piece of metal drilled with a series of different size holes to put the screws in for heating to prevent them from rolling off, though you may secure them in any suitable manner. Heat each screw until red hot before moving to the next one. By doing them one at a time, heat applied to the screws in sequence allows them to cool more slowly, an approach that works great for me. After allthe screws have been heated, allow them to cool to room temperature.

Once cooled, install the screws with red Loctite, making sure the oval head bottoms out in the countersink. Clean away the excess Loctite and set aside for a day to allow the Loctite to set. Failing to allow the Loctite to fully cure will let the screw heads turn when filing them down (don’t ask me Top Bottom We’re ready for bluing. how I know this.) Failing to wait a day and having the screw turn can ruin this process and leave a tell tale outline once finished, which is something we’re trying to avoid here.

Having waited our day, it’s time to upset the screw heads. Put the part being finished (barrel, receiver, etc.) in a sturdy vise positioned so the screw heads will absorb the maximum impact. Using an eight ounce ball-peen hammer, begin upsetting the screw heads by continuously tapping on them, starting top dead center and then around the circumference to insure the head is driven into the countersink. It doesn’t take much and there is no need to slam the hammer down. A controlled tapping will suffice.

Once the heads have been flatten to your satisfaction (experience will teach you how much) the real work begins. The files I use are eight-inch second cut and smooth cut, a sixinch smooth cut, and a four-inch #2 Swiss pillar file along with apiece of chalk and a file card to keep the files from loading up. If the work isn’t being done as part of a refin-

The two unsightly holes have disappeared. ishing project, tape up around the screw heads to prevent or lessen any file damage. I start with two layers of masking tape, work down to one layer, and eventually have to remove the tape. Very careful, slow, and deliberate strokes go along way with this project. Shape of the project determines how to file the heads down. For this article I used a discarded round muzzleloader barrel. This required filing the heads following the round contour.

The Henry I mentioned earlier had an octagon barrel and was a little more difficult to file perfectly flat so as not to round off the edges of the barrel. Since you are going to do a substantial amount of filing on this project it’s wise to have good files with handles on them, one for control and another for safety so as to prevent the tang from piercing your hand. Start and end with the files in the order I listed them. As you get to the first of the two layers of tape, switch to the eight-inch smooth cut.

Upon reaching the top of the of the second layer, move to the six-inch smooth cut. As you go down through the last layer of tape, proceed with care. As you move down in size, go slower and more deliberate in your strokes. When the screw head starts to "flake" at the edges, move to the Swiss cut file and on to the home stretch. As the job finishes, you’ll see the screw head melting into the base metal. Rub the area with your fingers to check for high spots. Carefully remove them, holding the contour.

Just prior to where you should stop, use a fine grit emery cloth starting with 360 up to 600 with a six-inch pillar file as a backing to finish up to where it is totally melted into the base metal. I suggest practicing on some old barrels to get the feel of using each file and to learn the stopping point. The key is to cut the countersink deep enough to swage the annealed screw head into it to form a seamless joint.

Using Oxpho-Blue Once satisfied with the results, refinish the work area if this isn’t part of a complete refinishing job. I use Brownells Oxpho-Blue (082-024- 004) with very good results. While attending a Gunsmith Career Fair, I brought some of my shop-made tools blued with Oxpho-Blue and the Gun Techs there were impressed with the good and durable finish.

When asked how I did it, the gist of my response was, "I don’t follow the manufacturer directions." I’ve used Oxpho-Blue on rifle barrels, jigs, and fixtures in this manner with exemplary success. Here’s how. If it is a repair such as making holes disappear or doing a touchup, I polish the affected area without disturbing the finish around it. For barrels and fixtures, I bead blast. After the metal surface is prepared, apply a degreaser and let it totally evaporate.

Saturate a cotton 12 gauge cleaning patch with the solution and wipe it on. The metal may turn several shades of blue or some spots will not blue at all. To make the area or part blend and turn a dark blue-black, take apiece of 0000 steel wool and saturate it with the bluing solution. With a heat source (propane or a good heat gun) heat the area to be blued until it is very warm. Apply the steel wool with bluing solution with a swirling, blending motion.

The metal should be hot enough that applying solution causes it to steam a little. Do this several times depending on the color wanted. With the last application, let it dry. Take another clean cotton patch saturated with the solution and wipe it again, letting it partially dry, then wipe with a clean cotton patch to completely dry it off. Use only clean patches or swabs each time. Never reuse the applicator patch as you don’t want to contaminate the bottle of bluing.

My experience with cold bluing indicates bead blasting and heating makes the bluing solution take very well, especially with barrels. There are barrels I have done this way being used on hunting rifles I built that look as good today as they did when I blued them. The bead blasting exposes the metal, while the heat opens it’s pores so to speak. This allows the bluing solution to penetrate well for a very nice and durable finish.

A great unexpected result with wiping the barrel with 0000 steel wool provides a nice matte finish for the bead blasted parts, one that matches many of the new rifle receivers being produced today. Now you can tell your customers, "I can make those ugly holes disappear!" This will be a service I’m sure they’ll appreciate. AG