A Hunter’s Finish For The Wooden Stock

I can imagine as soon as firearms were invented that the first hunter to carry one concocted some way of dressing up the stock to make it more to his liking. There are tales of boiling berries, crushed walnut hulls, whale oil, and "more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamed of in your philosophy." (Hamlet: Act 1, Scene 5. My apologies to The Bard.) Indians, early trappers, and mountain men adorned their firearms with brass tacks, feathers and deer skin.

This business of "my rifle is the nicest one in camp" has been going on along time and continues to this day. All of us appreciate a finely finished firearm but what that is depends on who is doing the appreciating. I have seen a stock finished by having crushed eggshells glued onto it. To my eyes, it was a horror and blasphemy but the owner was very proud of it. So be it. Let us begin.

I freely admit to having copied the techniques and methods of the finishers who came before me, some masters of the craft, others unknown and unheralded. I continue to try and learn from any and all that I admire. From these parts I have created a whole process that works for me. That is what I will present in this article hoping to add one more idea to your own personal repertoire. Unfortunately, high-grade wooden stocks are not as available as they used to be.

That being said, it doesn’t mean we can’t produce a functional and aesthetic silk purse from the proverbial sow’s ear if the right techniques are applied and care and patience are practiced. I get a charge out of reading the old books such as Monty Kennedy’s Checkering & Carving of Gunstocks and hearing him bemoan having to shell out ten dollars for an exhibition-grade blank that we might have to pay a thousand dollars for today. There is still good wood out there but you will pay through the nose for it.

I was reading in one of the gun tomes the other day about how Dakota Arms has been scouring the world for the best wood for their firearms. They are not alone, and there is real competition for the premium stuff. I recently inspected a wall full of Dakota rifles at a local high-end gun store and the wood was simply amazing. When every rifle you sell goes out the door for ten thousand dollars, it is what it is. For the rest of us there are preinletted sticks of wood in the hundreds-of-dollar range.

My guns don’t sell for the tab Dakota puts on theirs but I have bought a few inexpensive stocks that I have been quite pleased with, especially when comparing them to some of the factory options available. At least when I’m done with them anyone can tell they have been hand-finished with care. As an example, I recently was trying to find a semi-inletted stock for a 96 Mauser.

I wanted a full-length Mannlicher but couldn’t find the exact contour I desired without having the stock custom cut, thereby increasing the price considerably. Perusing Brownells catalog one evening I spied a suitable stock (not Mannlicher) at an advertised price of sixty dollars! The stock was petite, perfect for the small-action Mauser which sported a 21-inch barrel. Also, it wasn’t bogged down with the usual cheek piece and shadow line that seems so impossible to escape on a classic stock now days.

My idea was to try to emulate the oldtime Mausers that were carried by the hunters that roamed Africa and India in the golden era who could appreciate a short, quick-handling hunting tool. The price made it seem almost like a throw away, but my interest was piqued. When the stock arrived I was surprised to see some nice grain in the buttstock on the off side and a little on the near. The grain ran through the grip and seemed to have been cut properly to bolster the strength in that critical area.

It weighed around two pounds and seemed to be just what I wanted. Inletting the stock to the action and barrel was a standard job requiring patience as well as a modicum of skill. I went through the requisite amount of Jerrow’s Inletting Black (kokopelliproducts.com). Trying to stop this stuff from getting on what I don’t want it to, especially my hands, is an exercise in futility but it works

It weighs two pounds. Notice how blonde the walnut looks without finish. The stock will darken considerably during the process described in this article and, to my way of thinking, doesn’t need to be stained. better than anything else I’ve tried. I guess I could wear latex gloves but it seems like overkill. I can’t say I like this job but I’m always happy when the final product is finished.

It never fails to feel like you’ve actually done something when you start with apiece of metal and wood that can’t possibly be joined and end up with two pieces that mate like hand in glove. I guess that’s one of the reasons I work in this profession. As usual, I inletted the bottom piece and magazine box of the Mauser before I started on the action itself.

I then glass bedded the bottom metal and rear stock screw in its original ferrule, effectively pillar bedding the rifle (the front has its own built-in pillar on the bottom of the recoil lug). Mauser had it right in 1896. Pillar bedding is nothing new and it stops the unwanted compression of wood stocks when the screws are tightened. Personally, despite all the hype, I don’t think it does anything else. I got a shock when I finished bedding the action and barrel.

The stock itself was too thin to hold the tang of the action and the bottom rear of the box magazine in the position it was designed for. It was a good half inch too thin. I have tried to include suitable pictures to explain the situation. I must say, in my limited experience, that I have never run into this problem before. Somebody at the factory can’t measure worth a damn!

The bottom metal on a 96 Mauser is kind of thick and rides up like a boat’s prow, sticking up from the back of the stock in an unmistakable eyesore. Oh well, that’s what I get for buying a cheapo stock. I sure as the devil couldn’t add stock material to cover it up but what in the heck was I going to do? I thought about my options for along time. Fortunately, the thickness of the Mauser bottom metal worked for me.

It has plenty of steel to function, and I simply ground it down to fit the stock’s contour and forgot about it. Sometimes the easiest option comes to you last. It’s not a perfect fit, however, not many will be put off by it and I was able to keep the stock and the project moving forward. Before starting the finishing process, I installed a Pachmayr recoil pad and used ascribe to outline the bottom of the buttstock.

After removing the pad, it was placed in a recoilpad jig from B-Square and ground down with my circular sander using an 80 grit abrasive wheel as close as I could go to the scribe lines. On aside note, in putting this article together I could not find the exact same jig listed on either Brownells or B-Square’s web sites. It may be discontinued. Whatever jig used, this task is best done outside if you do not have a high-class dust disposal system attached to your sander.

The amount of debris that comes off the pad is astounding. I would recommend a respirator mask, too. I replaced the pad on the stock and finished shaping it, starting with 120-grit abrasive paper and stopping at 180-grit to make the pad a nearperfect fit to the wood. So many factory stocks these days are left with the pad so proud it just seems like laziness on their part. Take the pad off and set it aside so it will not be affected by the finish running over it.

The use of sanding blocks to back your paper is essential. You veterans already know this, but if you are just starting out don’t imagine that you can hold apiece of sandpaper sans backing without making dips and other unwanted blemishes in your stock. I use blocks of wood cut to fit, corks, erasers, pieces of automotive hoses and just about anything that fits the area I’m working on. There may be a spot that can’t be reached without using your hands only but the vast majority of the time you need a backer.

Trust me on this one. The best way to start your initial sanding of these kinds of stocks is with the barrel, action and bottom

Moisture will sneak in here, warping the stock if unattended. metal already inletted but unfinished so you can sand right up to the contour of the metal without ruining its finish. Remove the metal from the stock when you are satisfied. I have received blocks of wood resembling chopped up 2 X 4s that manufactures called "semi-inletted." So far, they all pulled down satisfactorily. This one wasn’t too bad and I was able to shape it to my specs with 180-grit paper and then smoothed out with 220.

That is where I stop and whisker. Most of you are aware of what that means, but indulge me if I explain for those ignorant of the process. Whiskering a wooden stock simply means wetting and then drying it. This allows fine fibers of wood to rise off the stock looking like little whiskers, hence the term. These are sanded off using 220-grit and the process repeated as necessary, usually four or five times. Don’t skip this step as these fibers have a tendency to rise after the stock is finished.

If not removed now this will ruin the finest job. There are several ways of doing the whiskering. I was talking to a friend the other day who related a tale of an old gunsmith in the early 60s who simply dunked the whole stock in a barrel of water, hung it up and walked away until it dried. It seemed to work for him. Others advocate drying the stock as fast as possible by using a propane torch or other heating device.

The torch works well but you have to be ex- An old cloth diaper (I knew I should saved more of these) is underneath the stock. You won’t find a softer cloth. An old brush is used to soak the stock. At least three coats are needed. tremely careful not to burn the wood. I’ve finally settled on a good electric hair dryer to dry the stock out. You can actually watch the water drying out and the little fellows standing up like peach fuzz on a teenager’s chin without the possibility of damaging the wood.

Sand the whiskers off about four or five times, less if none come up. Some recommend leaving the last whiskers standing and continuing the finishing process. I’ve tried it both ways and haven’t been able to determine any difference, so now I

The extra metal is not needed here for strength and is easily reconfigured. just sand them all off until I’m satisfied no more will rise. Some recommend wiping the stock at this point with a solvent such as tolulene. I don’t. I think these types of materials take too long to dry (even those of high molecular weight) and will interfere with the sealer going deep into the wood. I use a regular, fresh tack cloth to take away all dust and debris.

They don’t leave any residue behind and set the wood to receive the finish. If you are using a stain, now is the time to add it. Personally, I like to leave a walnut stock alone unless the customer wants it stained. Each piece of walnut is its own portrait, and will usually turn out darker and look like walnut without any artificial help. But, it’s your project so feel free to experiment.

If the stock I’m working on is not too heavy, I try to hang it by putting a clothes hanger through the front action screw hole without touching the outside of the wood. A cardboard box or other container can catch any drip off. Start adding the sealer to the wood with a throw-away brush. Really load it up until you think the wood can’t absorb any more and the sealer runs off the bottom. Some think the sealer should be allowed to penetrate for 15 minutes or so and then the excess wiped off.

I leave it on, and I usually add a little more after a sufficient time to make sure it is really soaked. I think it takes more time than 15 minutes to penetrate the wood and will cover more completely if allowed to stand as is. Let the stock dry overnight and repeat this process at least two more times. Sometimes you may have to add more but I’ve found that most stocks will have taken all the sealer they can by the third pass. I then leave the stock dry for at least 48 hours.

Remember, I didn’t say this was a quick process. I really think the sealer needs this long to harden and adjust itself to the wood. I guess by now you’re wondering what kind of sealer I’m using. Permalyn Sealer and, its companion product, Permalyn Gun Stock Finish are two of the finest products I have found so far for this application. They are manufactured by Laurel Mountain Forge (laurelmountainforge.com, Crown Point, IN 46308. Some sealers need to be thinned with mineral spirits or whatever.

I have found these products can be used as is and still penetrate the wood satisfactorily. Mineral spirits can be used for cleanup but I don’t like adding it to my gunstock finish. Here, I would like to say that I’ve used many products for finishing a stock. I started when I was a little boy on my personal .410 shotgun. Even then I just couldn’t leave well enough alone, I guess. I tried Linseed and Lin-speed oil, tung oil, Tru-Oil, spar varnish and God knows how many others.

All the usual suspects but, so far, the Permalyn products have served me well and, until something better comes along, they are what I use. I don’t know exactly what’s in them. The label states they contain petroleum distillate but the exact composition is proprietary and anybody’s guess. It doesn’t matter, I suppose. The finish will stand up to weather and resist nicks and scratches which is what I want it to do, as well as my hunting clients. You need some way to hold your stock for sanding.

As you can see from my photos I took a scrap piece of wood and fit it to where the bottom metal goes and screwed it into a dowel in the action area that approximates the diameter of the

The metal is in the white and the recoil pad is attached. Notice that the rear of the trigger guard matches the contour of the stock and doesn’t protrude from the stock in an unsightly manner. This rifle is far from finished. Sans scope and rings it weighs exactly seven pounds; not too heavy, not too light. It should hold steady in the hunting fields. barrel channel. I also built a small stand equal to the height of where the vise holds the dowel to stabilize the buttstock.

You can hold the piece in your hands if you want but I believe it’s easier this way, especially when you are trying to determine if you’ve sanded an area enough. By this I mean all the shiny spots need to be wet, sanded down to the wood and turning the stock this way and that to let you see the results if you stand back to check. For the initial wet sanding I use the same 220-grit paper I used for the final sanding before adding the sealer.

At this point the original sealer should be used for the wet-sanding process. The finish is yet to come. 320 grit paper with the sealer can be used after the down to the wood but if you try to use the 320 first it will take forever. The smoother grit paper comes later when the final finish is applied. Most of the directions I’ve seen in print recommend using a dry, lint-free cloth to wipe off the excess wet-sanding medium. I use paper towels to wipe the stock.

I don’t have many lint-free cloths lying around the shop and a roll of Bounty will do you. I have a holder for paper towels directly above my work bench and use them all the time. Wipe the stock against the grain and remove all shiny areas. Before long you will begin to see the difference and rubbing your hand over the sanded areas will reveal wood that is smooth as glass. Where it isn’t, use a little more elbow grease but don’t allow your paper to get too dry and drag.

Don’t get me wrong, the wood will still feel like wood, not plastic, and very smooth with filled pores. For all sanding use wet-or-dry paper that is used for automotive finishing. Usually it will have aluminum oxide or silicon carbide as the abrasive. These kinds of papers do not clog up as fast as regular sandpaper and produce a smoother finish. 3M, Gator and others make these kinds of papers and they can be found by the sheet in automotive stores or ordered on line.

When you have finished pulling down the sealer to the wood you can start to add the final finish. Hang your stock and load it up with the Permalyn Finish using the same technique with the throw-away brush. Really soak it. Let it dry (I usually have a fan running) for at least 24 hours, then do it again. Two coats should be enough, depending on what wood you have. When you are satisfied the wood will not soak up any more finish, begin wet-sanding with 320-grit paper.

Now you are seeing what the stock will look like when done. Take all shiny spots off and stand back to look at a good job. After patting yourself on the back finish up by wet-sanding with 400grit paper. Here’s where I usually stop but 600 and even 1200-grit paper is available. I did that one time—never again. Unless you are working with an unusually exquisite specimen of exhibition-grade French walnut that will never see the hunting fields I can’t recommend pushing it that far.

Hang the stock and forget about it for a week or even two, then you will be ready to begin checkering. When the checkering process is complete either use a good Carnauba wax on your stock or let it go as is. Also, if you want to have a shiny, reflective stock it’s possible to take a little finish and rub it on like the hand-rubbed oil stock crowd is fond of doing.

To my way of thinking, all those options are OK but, as I said when I started this article, I am trying to get a finish on a wooden stock that will stand up to the rigors of hunting in the real world. That means a hard, durable, non-reflective (non-game spooking) finish that can be depended on for many years. In that vein I’m not embarrassed to turn over a stock finished this way to even the most critical customers. AG