Reshaping Too Large Cheek Pieces

’m I using anew stock turner for my work, Al Lind, a rather well known custom rifle maker. His website, Al Lind Gunmaker. com, spells out that his stocks are machined in the classic American style but are deliberately left oversize on the outside so we can implement our own design ideas and allow for individual tastes and design concepts to be incorporated. This is an excellent approach. I sent him a not-too-shabby English walnut blank for a pre-64 Winchester M70 that I was building for my son.

It was a beautiful piece of English walnut, however, the stock was returned with several features which I do not care for. Let me explain. Over the years I have taken certain measurements from stocks which I thought to be the ideal in terms of design and function. These have been carefully recorded so that I developed a record of the most beautifully designed stocks regardless of the inherit beauty of the wood.

Now I understand that one can not just simply go by some mathematical formula and wind up with a thing of beauty. There are many other factors involved. I use the annotated measurements as a guide, a frame of reference if you will, whenever I take on a project for a client. Thus, we both know before hand what our goals are in terms of the finished product. These measurements are taken from the trigger location to the cheek piece and shadow line, as well as the profile of the wrist/pistol grip.

Given what I consider ideal dimensions, I thought the machined stock was hugely oversized, especially the cheek piece area. I like the rear edge of the cheek piece to be ten inches from the trigger location with the shadow line an appropriate distance beyond and in a pleasing curve that follows the outline of the original cheek piece. The cheek piece as received was well beyond the ten inch requirement that I had mind, which was exactly what was stated on Lind’s web site.

It was now up to me to take advantage of the oversize situation and create, if you will, a beautiful stock. Time to go to work. First and foremost, I sharpen all of my chisels. There’s nothing quite as aggravating as finding out your chisels won’t cut during an exacting task. I know it’s a pain in the neck task, but believe me, it will save you time and frustration in the long run as any general upset can damage your ability to do your best work.

I decided to tackle the reshaping of the cheek piece at the first part of my effort to create a beautifully shaped stock. I chose the cheek piece because it was the bigger task and I

thought best to get it done while still fresh and focused. I carefully began the task of shortening the cheek piece by drawing a line conforming to the cheek piece shape of the actual cheek piece approximately 10 inches measured from the trigger. Once that was done I chiseled away as much excess wood as possible. I believe the term is "hogging out the wood." I then alternately used chisels, rasps and surform tools to cut the new cove (ogee) which runs down to the shadow line.

I like to outline the shadow line at this point because it gives me a sneak preview, if you will, of the final result. Then it’s just a matter of gradually forming the new cheek piece and shadow line. I use my rat tail files to start the new cove, beginning with the small one, working up to the medium, then the large. The surform rasp is used whenever I can to smooth things out.

As the cove develops I use larger and larger half round rasps to bring the shadow line as even as I can make it all around the edge of the cheek piece. This is a good time to take a break and step back to review progress prior to putting the finishing touches on the shadow line of the cheek piece.. Once again, using a variety of rasps (a pattern maker’s cabinet rasp is ideal for this task) and depending on where the excess wood is located, rasp away.

I generally put the stock away until the following day at this point to do the final work on the cheek piece. The new shortened cheek piece is then ready for final shaping. For this task I use several different tools, such as safe edge files and noclog files in different sizes, and around surform rasp. I want to clean up the new shadow line and make it flow smoothly from the top end, near the heel around to the front end, and near the wrist.

I do most of this work with the safe edge rasp and the aforementioned no-clog files which also have a safe edge. No-clog files do not tear away wood as do regular files and rasps with individual teeth. They actually plane the wood away because they have semi circular cutting edges. Clean up any unevenness anywhere the old shadow line left off and the new is being shaped. This is where the no-clog files come in handy.

When it comes time to even up the former shadow line with the area just behind it, I am very careful not to take away too much wood. And I make certain which way the grain is flowing, keeping in mind the natural curve of the stock behind the cheek piece. I need to be certain it matches the curve on the off side of the stock. Believe me this an easy mistake to make and one that is nearly uncorrectable. I use a very large no-clog file for this task.

When I think the job is complete I look at the shadow line to determine if there are any rough or uneven spots. If there are I use 100 grit abrasive paper wrapped around a dowel or small rubber hoses of various diameters to make the corrections, working slowly and carefully. From time to time as the situation warrants, a half round no-clog file is used to smooth things out.

The last thing is to tightly wrap apiece of 100 grit abrasive paper around a small piece of wood that has been carefully squared off and clean up the edge of the shadow line. Of course when I do this task on the rear of the shadow line I’m sanding across the grain. Sorry folks, it can’t be helped. I use progressively finer abrasive paper in grits up to 220 to reduce the scratches caused by sanding across the grain. The final clean up is with the safe edged no-clog file.

This tool can cut across the grain if used with care and leave everything silky smooth. Then I sand smooth with 320 and 400 grit abrasive paper

wrapped around a sanding block, working with the grain. If you are careful and have a good eye for form you’ll be pleased the results. I’m ready now to move on and complete the task of creating a custom classic stock out of a machined stock. N.b. Patternmaker cabinet rasps are made especially for wood filing where a smooth finish is desired. Edges are cut ( have teeth) and taper slightly from tang to front. The unique tooth design eliminates most "filling" problems and doesn’t gouge into wood or snag cross grain.

These are probably the most useful wood rasps for "almost final" shap- The stock is complete except for finish. Bottom: Close up of the completed cheek piece. ing and finishing. They are coarser than wood files. No-clog files cover every operation from rough shaping to final contouring of combs and grip areas. With heavy pressure the wood rolls off at an incredible rate. For finish work the weight of the file alone will make sawdust cuts and cuts smoothly across the grain.

The primary feature is their no-clog design and safe edge. The safe edge on files and rasps does not have any teeth. These are excellent tools for outlining (e.g. the edge of a shadow line) where you want to trim wood away from the edge but not from the flat part just next to it. AG American Gunsmithing Association