Recoil Pads For Synthetic Stocks

A common job around the shop is to replace an aging recoil pad or to fit anew pad to an existing firearm. Recoil pads may increase the length of pull and modify fit. Sometimes they just perform their intended function of decreasing the rap received on the shoulder when firing a hard kicking firearm. Fitting the butt pad is a steady job for gunsmiths that is accomplished mostly with hand tools and time proven techniques. Measuring tape, duct tape, and ascribe are just a few of the tools needed.

About half of the recoil pads I install are because of problems with length of pull rather than any problem with severe recoil. There is a distinction between the butt plate and a recoil pad. The butt plate may be thin and it may be steel and it doesn’t do anything but cap off the stock. The recoil pad is also a butt pad in a manner of speaking but serves an While it works OK a superior fastening can be done with both screws and epoxy. additional purpose.

It’s fine if the customer is concerned with recoil but you still need to be certain that you do not affect the length of pull in an undesirable manner. The length of pull is the distance from the trigger to the end of the stock and the area where the butt pad snugs into the shoulder. Most individuals will be best served with 13-14 inches of pull. Be certain to check and see if the individual will be firing the gun with a heavy hunting coat. Clothing and seasonal choices may affect the desirable length of pull.

While recoil is always a consideration, be certain that the length of pull isn’t compromised. I often select a thicker butt pad for hard kicking shotguns and the heavier rifles. I have used KICK- EEZ products with excellent results (kickeezproducts.com, A lightweight .30-06 or a pump action 12 gauge may batter the user. There is a lot you can do when you change the recoil pad to give the user more comfort and a better fit. You might even change the angle or the pitch of the stock if desired.

The care in fitting a pad to a rifle that has only worn a metal butt pad is important. Without the initial pilot hole we may crack the stock. Be certain to run the pilot hole first. Some thickness of recoil pads are more difficult to find. A composite material stock requires a different set of rules and procedure than a wooden stock. Some of the procedure is challenging as there are certain procedures directly linked to the synthetic stock.

A common complaint isn’t always related to the recoil of a lightweight rifle with no recoil pad. A hollow synthetic stock often gives the impression it will startle game. A small bump leads to a reverberation that may sound like a drum. Filling the stock with some type of sound deadening material (about 75% full) is good. There are several means of filling the stock. I have used filling covered by fiberglass resin. A quick fix that doesn’t necessarily work out is to use foam-type insulation. One

85 inch long by 1.5 inch wide unit rather than a Remington 700 pad. This makes a great deal of sense and ensures a good fit. squirt and the stock is filled and sounds good at first, however, the chemicals in the foam and carrying agent are corrosive. Even stainless steel may be affected. Once the foam dries the problem seems to abate but during the drying process corrosion is a real danger. In pursuing the correct part for every rifle at times we simply come close.

By that I mean we order the part with the closest dimensions possible and hand fit it to the rifle. Some recoil pads fit properly but often enough the pad will allow only one screw to be tightened, requiring the pad to be glued on. This is common with the best made pads and stock. In order to properly glue the pad to the stock I mark the outline of the buttstock on the pad, not the other way around. The stock’s butt should be scribed on the pad to be installed, then use the bead to seal the recoil pad to the stock.

If the recoil pad has to be modified or sanded, do this before the final gluing. There is a neat trick to this assembly that involves extra time and care but results in superior chemical bonding. Carefully drill around both the edges of the stock and the edges of the butt pad with 1/16" holes ( I have also used 5/32 drill bits with good results.) These holes will fill with epoxy and keep the butt pad and the stock bonded. Be careful as some stocks are terribly thin, but this is necessary for a good bond.

Take your time and drill a slight indentation with the stock stabilized to insure no slip ups. Use a weight to keep the butt pad and the stock together after the epoxy is run along the stock. No matter how careful you are during the process there will be an over run of epoxy. Let the stock and the butt pad set to dry for at least an hour. The bond will still be soft at this point but will be solid enough to allow handling.

Trim the excess epoxy that has inevitably leaked from the stock and recoil pad joint for a clean, professional look.

The location depends upon the dimensions and construction of the stock. Applying A Curve Sometimes custom work is needed when fitting a pad, such as applying a curve to properly modify the recoil pad. Hold the recoil pad to the bare end of the stock. Trace the desired dimensions of the recoil pad on the pad surface, never neglecting to scribe each side in turn. Next, slowly grind the interior portion of the recoil pad until you are very close to the needed measurement.

I do not rush but grind pretty close and then slow down as I grind out the final dimensions. After It is easily trimmed after letting the stock set about an hour first. you have accomplished the proper curve, there will probably also be an overlap of the recoil pad in the width dimension. With this dimension carefully marked off, sandpaper is usually all that is needed to finish out the recoil pad. I use coarse paper at first. If this doesn’t finish up clean I’ll use a lighter grade as the finisher.

I mentioned pilot holes earlier. You cannot usually do this with a synthetic stock, which is why I stressed the previous method. If possible, a pilot hole is begun with a slightly smaller bit than the recoil pad screws you intend to use. After the pilot hole is established, confirm the screws will be properly lined up. Drive the screws into place with a power drill. All in all, recoil pads area simple drop that requires a little attention to detail for the best outcome. AG