Reader Forum

Stock Repair Tip The January 2013 edition of American Gunsmith had some fun stuff. First, your "in-the-cover" editorial on S1249 may come in handy. We need a shooting range, here in Bastrop County, Texas. Next, "Extreme Stock Repair" by Paul Mazan was great. Mr. Mazan has a great style. Love the humor as well as the tech info. On that topic, I have found that soaking the stock part in lacquer thinner really degreases it. Here are some things I do when repairing old oily stocks. Disassemble—duh.

Put the forend in a Lay’s Stax potato chip container and fill it with lacquer thinner. I start with "used" thinner and then proceed to "clean" thinner after a day or two. The Stax container has a plastic identification code in the recycle symbol of #2, which means high-density polyethylene, and is thus highly resistant to the lacquer thinner. Any similar container should do. This process really drys the part out.

Following this, I let it air dry for a day and then put it in the oven for a few hours at about 200, wiping it occasionally (every hour or two) I got an extra kitchen oven at a Habitat for Humanity Re Store for about $35 and use it in the shop for this, as well as other stock work and for curing ceramic coatings (not to mention the occasional pizza). I then re-soak it to get out any "raised" oil. The only problem with this process is that it sucks out all the oil and finish from the wood.

I find that after the repair I need to resaturate the wood with a natural oil, typically a linseed and True-oil mix, and then refinish as required. I could try lacquer coating but I generally avoid that type as being too delicate to solvents and prefer oil or urethane finishes on stocks. John Doug Kelsay KELTEC Systems, Inc. Paul Mazan responds: Thanks for passing this along. It’s always nice to know someone likes your work.

I’m always reluctant to do to much humor because my experience has been that some that don’t get the joke are offended by it. At the same time, I’d hate to simply do straight tech that reads like a school book. Looks like I hit the right mix here and I’ll try to keep that mix. Melior Manual Where can I get a manual or instructions to disassemble and maintain a Melior .32 caliber pistol? It was made in Belgium prior to World War Two and is serial number 650XX.

Steve We found no mention of the Melior pistol in Pistols of the World by Ian Hogg or Small Arms of the World by Edward Ezell, however, additional research lead to an article from Concealed Carry Magazine written by Ed Buffaloe. It mentioned how to field strip the pistol and much of its history, which dates to 1907. Searching online will locate sources for parts but we have not yet found a manual or schematic. Bu alo Bill Commemorative I have in a Winchester Buffalo Bill commemorative that needs some bluing done.

I know there are some of these that cannot be blued in the conventional manner. Can you tell if this one is one of them? George Weiland George’s Gun A significant factor here is when the gun was made. Over a certain span of time, we think it was back when US Repeating Arms was under the control of offshore interests, those overseas owners attempted a reduction in production expenses by altering metal composition and bluing processes, or both.

As we’ve been led to believe the effort achieved a reddish or purplish cast on the receivers of already purchased rifles that, after a period of time, required refinishing. Contact Browning-Winchester with the serial number of the rifle. This will enable establishing of the production date. Inquire if that date falls in the time period when subsequent bluing problems arose. Follow this with a call to the bluing service you intend to use to assure they’ll be able to handle the problem.

Or, if you’re planning to take on the task personally, have a talk with a couple off Brownells bluing techs to assure you have the equipment and

supplies before proceeding. A further note: We understand rebluing a commemorative can significantly reduce its collector value. Remington XP 700/XP 100 Barrels may be headspaced to a witness mark and screwed in by hand with a snap of the wrists or with a strap wrench if then held in place by a sturdy set screw. Some barrel threads area light interference fit and must be relieved by thread die, lathe or careful filing, using a liquid marker or layout fluid.

Headspacing with new empty brass—not loaded ammo—is a tedious, troublesome, bad idea with uncertain results. Ago gauge plus neat discs of transparent tape 0.0015" thick will tell exactly where you are. A vise is necessary only to remove the original barrel and a temporary one can be made of hardwood, epoxy and bolts. Wear to action and barrel should be no problem. Keep the surfaces lightly oiled. If headspace becomes too tight (past the witness mark) a shim of good stock—preferably steel, not aluminum—may be used.

Factory barrels may be unavailable and may not insure good fit in the stock. Free floating avoids problems with contour variations, at least when fully inletted. If shanks vary in size, all but one will require a shim in the stock. Case heads must be identical or within a very few thousandths. Swapping bolts is an undesirable complication. There are limits to OAL and other dimensions affecting feeding. Design parameters are not just about pressure levels, but also case size, magnum or not!

This information is FYI only, intended to indicate that the work can be successfully done. It would be extremely dangerous for the tasks required to be undertaken without textbook knowledge, training and experience. It would also be dangerous to attempt a barrel swap without the knowledge necessary to set up the rifle in the first place.

In a world of "if all else fails, read the directions", and "nothing is foolproof because fools are so ingenious", and "if you get hurt, sue," you don’t want to be in court hearing, "He knew or should have known," and, "Profoundly not in accord with known and accepted industry standards." In any case, it is likely that swaps will be infrequent; and that the rifle will serve most of its use with a single barrel, no matter how many are fitted.

Considering the cost in time and materials, inspiration and not economics must rule. Joseph Good advice there, especially toward the end, Reader Gates. We’d add at the top that the "sturdy set screw" you mention should be the nylon threaded kind and not made of steel to prevent marring the barrel. We’d also add all those considering barrel changing first read John Hinnant’s book, The Complete Illustrated Guide to Precision Rifle Barrel Fitting available from midwayusa.com.

Drilling And Tapping Polymer I recently bought anew Ruger 10/22 and found that the trigger housing is now made from polymer. Can the polymer used in firearms be drilled and taped? I have worked for a gunsmith for eight years and we have done many trigger jobs on 10/22’s. I like to install a trigger over travel screw through the back of the trigger guard instead of through the trigger.

All of the guns I have previously worked on had the aluminum trigger housing and I am not sure that the polymer can withstand the slight stresses of a set screw through the trigger guard. Could I thread and epoxy a threaded bushing? Walter It depends on the polymer used. If it is a high density type the guard is probably strong enough and a #6 or #8 nylon set screw have been known to withstand the pressure of a fingertip.

A high density would be likely to withstand the same if you chose to go the threaded bushing route but we’d advise using thread locking liquid on the bushing. At any rate, we have no manufacturing details on the type of polymer Ruger uses. You should contact their customer service people either in NH or AZ. Which one depends on where they are presently making the rifle. AG