Reader Forum

Henry .22 Repeating Ri le I have three rifles in my shop that were in a house fire. The only damage is cosmetic, being surface rust and a need for rebluing. The Marlin and Mossberg can be taken down but I don’t have info on the Henry lever action .22. Have you done a story on disassembly and reassembly? The major problem is the receiver and cover made of aluminum and I need to remove the barrel. As for refinishing, the trigger on the Marlin was gold. Is there away to give it back its color?

The damage to it caused pitting from rusting underneath. We covered the Henry rifle in the October 1997 issue. No reprints are available that far back but we are publishing your need for it with your email address. Another member could have the article and be willing to send a copy. The original Henry, which played such a significant role in the history and success of Winchester Repeating Arms, had no receiver cover or receiver made of aluminum. We further do not believe it was ever produced to chamber .22LR.

This leads us to the conclusion that you are referring to the Henry Repeating Arms Golden Boy. We covered that one in the February 2004 issue. Reprints may still be available. If not, what we mentioned in regard to another member seeing this still apply. If our conclusion regarding your Henry remains correct, the receiver cover isn’t aluminum. It is brass plated zinc and too thin to drill and tap for a scope mount. The receiver under the cover is made of sterner stuff and the barrel is pinned to it.

The upper two pins at the front of the receiver are tapered. They must be drifted out right to left. The pin beneath those two pins is a roll pin that also retains the magazine tube. It also is drifted out right to left but with a roll pin punch. Once all these pins are removed, and the receiver devoid of any interference to its rear, a rubber or leather mallet can be used to drift it back and off the barrel. Quackenbush .22 Ri le Where can I get info about this rifle? How to load, shoot it, break down, etc.?

Henry Marcus Quackenbush is credited with bringing on the popularity of the air rifle in the United States. Generally speaking, his air guns were ingenious and very economical youth rifles for the manufacture of which (1893 through 1920) he designed his own mass-production machinery. Invention came natural to H. M. While working at Remington in 1902 he managed to squirrel enough time off to invent the extension stepladder. Mark Wiggins The last H. M. Quackenbush air rifle reportedly left the factory in 1940.

None of the airguns produced by H. M. should be confused with the big bore ones, up to .50 caliber, made presently by Dennis Quackenbush a distant relative of H. M. As for your gun specifically, the best source for information, parts and service is John Groenewald (jgair- J. G. wrote an entire book on the early Quackenbush rifles. By the way, H. M. even made BB ammo for his guns. Darts, too. Parker Hale I would like to find a schematic for a Parker Hale 1200 rifle and a source of spare parts.

Collin Buckingham So would we, Reader Buckingham. Such drawings might not have been in existence when Parker and Hale, both sellers of sporting arm accessories, decided to build what became one of the finest sporting long arms ever offered the public as well as an excellent tool in the able possession of a sniper. If you are fortunate enough to be in possession of one, examine it closely for a US Patent number.

That number, a check or money order for five dollars and a written request will purchase a copy of the patent from the Patent & Trademark Office, to whom the check or order is made out, in Washington, D. C. You may also visit the United States Patent and Trademark Office online Jerry Spadorcio The patent copy you will receive will contain no schematic but it will contain many drawings and a full description of how the rifle functions.

We do know the Parker Hale action was based on the Mauser design and that Gibbs Rifle was actually involved with Parker Hale Ltd. in the past. Sears Model #101 I’m looking for disassembly/reassembly instructions for my old Sears Model #101 single shot 20 gauge shotgun. It has a lever on the right hand side to break it open and is chambered for three inch shotshells. Also, I need the same info for my Dad’s 12 gauge side by side double barrel.

It was made by Crescent Firearms Co. and sold under the name American Gun Company, serial # 114XXX with 32" Damascus barrels. Robert Gene Boehler The Sears 101 and the Stevens 940 are the same and along time out of production. We have no further information but there is a schematic of the 940 in Volume II of Jack First’s catalog The Savage- Stevens Historian, John Callahan, Westfield, MA may be able to steer you to, or provide, a copy of a 940 Owners Manual.

With that in hand you could at least field strip the gun for a good cleaning. Crescent Arms produced economy shotguns for anyone who wanted

their name on them, including hardware stores. There isn’t a schematic for any one of them in any of our references, only drawings of parts laid flat. Complicating things further are the Damascus barrels, which are likely to unwind under pressures generated by modern shotgun loads. We’d turn the project over to Briley Manufacturing along with an order for a couple of their full length barrel inserts. Gauge would be reduced to 16 or 20 and the gun would be safe to fire. The cost isn’t on the low side.

The gun value probably doesn’t warrant the expense but sentimental value may justify it in your case. Otherwise, clean it up, give the stock a good looking finish and hang the double in a place of honor over your fireplace. Verona Shotgun I have a Verona SX405S-12, semi auto shotgun in my shop that fails to feed. When the shell is released from the magazine it stops at the carrier latch, failing to push back the latch far enough to release the carrier.

All parts seem to work freely and have no apparent wear or damage. Jeffrey M Lagendyk We feel like we’ve been through the looking glass, and back, with this one. The Standard Catalog of Firearms lists Verona Shotguns being imported by B. C. Outdoors, a Canadian Hunting/Fishing magazine. A leading shotgun site showed Venronas being imported by PMC Ammunition. Maybe once upon a time. Not now.

Verona Shotguns made are being imported by Legacy Sports, Reno, NV assume your SX405S, for slug, arrived on these shores via Legacy. If it is new, meaning still under warranty, you can pretty much disregard what follows and return the gun to Legacy for corrective measures at low or no cost. If the gun isn’t in their line, or is out of warranty, Legacy can probably supply the parts we believe might be involved.

These would start with a brand new magazine spring because the original has somehow lost "push" enough to bump the shell into the carrier release. After that, the release itself and its related components in the carrier mechanism might be the next thing(s) to replace. The magazine follower might be involved. It could be dragging on the interior of the mag tube. If the tube is internally fouled or damaged, this could cause the drag.

The follower might be hanging up in the area of the receiver/magazine union, where the magazine discharges the shell towards the carrier mechanism. If any corrective measures must be undertaken involving the receiver, we advise the gun be returned to Legacy for service. Marlin 25M .22WMR I would like to do a trigger job on a Marlin 25M. The trigger is extremely "tight" and not conducive to good shooting. What is the best way to approach this?

I have thought of replacing the sear spring and cutting it down to a weaker point. Not cutting the spring itself but sanding the circumference of the spring making it weaker. Would this be an effective way or is there a better way to do this? Charles Knapp Charlie’s Guns We’re not exactly certain what you mean by "tight." Ergo, we will assume you’re getting some resistance when attempting to pull the trigger but it’s breaking clean after a certain amount of travel.

Before reducing the circumference of the spring, which is an inexact science, we feel safer about nipping off spring coils, removing the trigger, coating its sides with a black magic marker or indexing fluid and reinstalling it to locate where it may be scraping against the receiver or trigger guard. Relieve those areas by stoning, polish smooth and retry the trigger.

If repeated measures don’t resolve the problem, remove the spring and send it to Wolff Springs, Newtown Square, PA 19073 (gunsprings.com) along with a quote on providing a couple of lighter weight, same diameter replacements. This, in our opinion, is a better way to both smooth up and lighten the pull. AG