Reader Forum

Enfield Barrel Removal I have a World War II-vintage Enfield rifle and can’t seem to remove the barrel from the receiver. I heard that sometimes iodine was used on the threads to lock them in place. Any suggestions for removing the barrel? Kroil and heat have not helped. Thank you for your help. Terence Rybak Pinckney, Michigan We don’t think iodine was used, nor would it have been necessary, since the threads are jammed in the receiver.

The threads are deliberately deformed to make barrel replacement an arsenal job. The arsenal used a huge, floor-mounted fixture for securing the barrel and a receiver wrench with an extremely long handle. Both were necessary in order to avoid deforming the receiver and wrecking the barrel. We know of no source for the aforementioned arsenal tooling, but if any reader can help we’ll be happy to pass the information along to you.

Cynergy Ejector Repair I enjoyed your article on Cynergy takedown and would like to ask for another short article on repairing Cynergy ejectors, which seem to be prone to breakage. Step-by-step photos would be helpful for me. I’m not a gunsmith, but I wind up having to do things for my customers. If I can get shooters back on the range without sending their gun back to Browning it would give me some confidence in selling Cynergys. Also, what in the world does "reverse striker" mean? Thanks much.

The breakage you speak of occurs with the ejector assembly as it was first designed. The head used to be retained by a press-fit pin. If the press fit between the two parts wasn’t tight enough, the pin "walked out" over an undetermined period of time, caught on the monoblock, and the head was snapped off. The repair calls for anew cam link and a tighter-fitting pin. Newer Cynergy shotguns have dispensed with the pin and replaced it with a rivet-type retainer which has eliminated the breakage problem.

In every other striker-fired gun we know of, when the sear releases, the initial move of the striker is forward. In the Cynergy, that move is away from the shell until the striker is returned by a rocker to impact the primer, hence the "reverse striker." Sig Mosquito Feedback First off, thanks to Chick Blood for an excellent article on the Sig Mosquito. It was both informative and rather entertaining reading.

The only issue I take is his comment about the silenced (suppressed) version of the pistol: "Since these devices are illegal for civilian use, I’m chalking up that opinion to over-engineering and/or simple ignorance of our laws." Most states allow private ownership of firearm suppressors (also known as "silencers"), and the BATFE has certain requirements and a $200 tax stamp that must be obtained on the title to the device. There are a lot of people who enjoy shooting suppressed weapons.

I’ll get into that a wee bit more by addressing the rest of his statement: "Who really needs a silencer on a .22 anyway? Except maybe a Mafia hit man." Using a suppressor on one’s firearm generally negates the need for ear protection for the shooter and anyone close enough to take hearing damage from the shooting (yes, even from a .22). Furthermore, the use of a suppressor tends to help prevent annoying one’s neighbors (or people near to wherever one legally shoots).

They’re not legal to hunt game with in most areas that I’m aware of, but are great for pest and vermin control (again, where legal) as you can hear the critters moving about without having to invest in expensive, electronic "ears." As our nation becomes more and more populous, residential areas and other property developments are beginning to encroach on our shooting areas. By quieting our muzzles, we save a lot of complaints. I know many people who legally own suppressors, and more than a couple of dealers.

Insofar as I am aware (and apparently the local chiefs and the BATFE agree) none of the owners are, in fact, Mafia hit men. That comment was just a wee bit insulting, though I’m sure it was meant to be humorous. Not everyone has an interest in legally owned suppressors (or machine guns for that matter), but if we start on that whole "who needs" thing, where is it likely to end?

What the great Benjamin Franklin once said of our revolutionary ancestors holds true today for gun owners and indeed everyone in the gun industry: "We must, indeed all hang together or most assuredly we shall all hang separately." Just food for thought, gentlemen. Keep up the most excellent work. Thanks, Tim, to you and a few others who pointed out that it is possible in many states for a civilian to acquire the proper permits to legally own a silenced weapon.

To be honest, we’d never thought about the advantages of varminting with a silenced pistol.

But clearly, as you point out, being able to hear the critters would be an advantage. (In the past, we’d only thought about varminting with an accurate gun with along sight radius’s omething very much unlike the Mosquito’s ince being able to hit the critter is also an advantage.) Finally, you’re right that, in our attempt to inject a little humor into an otherwise dry and technical subject, we did cross the line into the dangerous territory of questioning the "purpose" or "usefulness" of a particular type of firearm.

That was short-sighted of us, and we apologize to you and any reader who might have been offended by the comment. Auto-5 Modifications I have a customer who has a 3-inch- Mag-only 20 gauge. He wants to know if it’s possible to shoot 2-3/4-inch shells in it. I changed the recoil spring

and friction piece out for the regular 20 gauge. I did not change out the action spring, since it is supposed to work for all gauges. I also made sure the break was set in the half-break mode. The gun still short cycles (won’t eject). Do you know if what I am trying to do is even possible or, if so, what else might need to be changed?

Howard Hastings Hastings Gunsmithing You’re right about the overall length of the action spring, but are you certain the recoil spring and friction piece are set up for high-velocity 20-gauge shells? The 3-inch Magnum arrangement is quite different from the 2-3/4inch, which only has a single bronze friction ring as opposed to three such rings on the 3-inch. In the 2-3/4 setup for HV, the flat surface of the single friction ring abuts the recoil spring.

On the 3-inch Magnum, two of the flats contact one another while the third ring flat meets the recoil spring. An Auto-5 owner’s manual from Browning picture the proper arrangements. S&W Revolver Takedown Do you have any information or drawings on the Smith & Wesson Model 28-2 (Highway Patrol)? Do you know what the "N" at the beginning of the serial number indicates? Thanks. There’s abundant information on S&W revolvers. Mechanically, they’re very similar in the design of their firing mechanisms.

A schematic for your specific model would appear in an owner’s manual available from S&Wor from the Brownells’ web site. For disassembly/reassembly information, see the NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly for Handguns or Gun Digest’s disassembly/reassembly book on revolvers. Though neither of these sources addresses the 28-2 specifically, the information is applicable to your revolver. For deeper study on the S&W revolver, purchase a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen’s shop manual on the subject (also available from Brownells).

As for the letter prefix, we believe it refers to the frame size, which for S&W revolvers goes from "J," the smallest, up through "K," "L," and "N," the largest. New London Shotgun Info? I’m cleaning up an old shotgun for a neighbor. The markings are "New London Arms Co." on the breech and "London Fluid Steel" on the barrel. The serial number is 39358. I’m guessing this was produced between about 1890 and 1920. I dismantled the breech mechanism and am having some trouble replacing a major pin and part.

Do you have any photos in your archives that would help me reassemble this correctly? (It was a real rust bucket.) The trigger springs are rusted through, but I have a clockmaker friend who says he can match the size with clockspring material. If anyone ever inquires about derusting, I soak the barrel and smaller parts in white vinegar for three days. This is good for removing surface rust. I made a trough of 4-inch PVC pipe, which I cut out with a reciprocating saw.

A cap on one end and a reducer and elbow on the other for drainage was added as well as a wood cradle to prevent tipping. Thanks for the rust-removal tip, Don. Wish we had better news for you in return, but our files are bare on "New London." It doesn’t show up in the Standard Catalog of Firearms or The Blue Book of Gun Values, either.

We know they can’t provide a schematic, but you might get some additional information on the old-timer by sending a photo of the gun and a stamped, self-addressed envelope to The NRA Museum (Waples Mill Road, Fairfax, VA 22030). Norinco Bolt Disassembly Are you familiar with the Norinco JW27 .22 bolt-action rifle? I can’t figure out how to disassemble the bolt.

This is a youth rifle, but it takes two men and a boy to engage the safety, and I’d like make it easy for a youth to be able to engage and disengage it, but I don’t know how to disassemble the bolt. Are you able to offer any help? Thank you. We’re not familiar with this particular rifle, and we have no schematic for the JW27, but we do know that the .22 is a "dirty" cartridge by nature.

Easing the operation of an encrusted safety’assuming it is integral with the bolt’d oes not in every case require total disassembly. Try removing the bolt from the rifle and immersing it in mineral spirits or white kerosene for 24 hours. Then use a squeeze bulb or old food baster to force the solvent through the mechanism for several flushings. Dry the assembly with compressed air and give it a light spray with lubricant and reinstall in the rifle.

If that fails, you may be able to secure an owner’s manual by contacting Norinco USA at Wobbly Savage Scope Mount I just recently purchased and mounted a Nitrex 6-20 scope on my Savage 340 Eseries (.222 caliber). The mount is the Weaver L Side Mount. Unfortunately, I found out the first time I went to the range that the mount can’t handle the scope. The mount fits the scope, but it’s attached to the rifle so far rearward that there’s play in the front of the scope.

It’s like the rear of the mount is acting as a pivot point for the scope. Any suggestions? After looking at a photo of the Savage 340 in The Standard Catalog of Firearms, we wonder why you felt aside mount was necessary. Since you’ve already paid for the pricey scope and are facing problems with the length of the mount, can you shorten the mount to distance it from the rifle’s rather severe drop at comb then redrill and

(continued from previous page) tap it? We realize this would mean redrilling the side mount holes you’ve probably already bored into the stock, but we think you might gain a flatter, more suitable substrate at the rear of the mount. This could get rid of the wobble. Also consider the bottom side of the mount may have to be reground to secure a flush fit with the stock configuration. In the future, we suggest you temporarily position the base to be used before spending the money for the scope.

The location can be tried without drilling any holes by using masking tape or water-soluble glue. Large Ring/Small Ring What’s the difference between the large-ring and small-ring Mauser, and why is there a difference? How do I recognize one from the other? Thanks. If you’re speaking of the Model 98, it was first chambered for the 7.9 mm. One of its later improvements over the Model 96 was a heavier, enlarged ring for added strength where the barrel was joined to the receiver.

Thus equipped, the rifle was safe to handle more powerful cartridges up to the 9mm range. In 1908, anew model 98 carbine inspired by the ’03 Springfield and fitted with a 23.62-inch barrel was produced with a smaller, lighter ring. It was intended for use with cavalry, artillery, and special units and was known as the Model 98a and 98b. During WW II it became standard issue for German forces as the 98k.

Since we have no blueprint dimensions, you’ll have to measure the differences between the two ring sizes yourself. We also recommend reading Mauser Bolt Actions by Ludwig Olson (from Brownells) to learn more about the Mausers. Olson’s book is considered to be the final word on the subject. Remington SP Cycling Problem I have a Remington SP 10-gauge Magnum waterfowl shotgun with a 26inch barrel that a gentleman brought in with a cycling problem.

He bought this gun brand new last summer and, before firing it, took it to another shop to have the forcing cone extended. After getting it back and firing two rounds, he brought it to me and said it would not cycle. After testing the gun, I found it only cycles about threefourths back and slides the spent shell back into the chamber. The forcing cone was removed about an inch and was left rough. Could this be part of the problem?

I’ve checked the gas port, cylinder and piston, as well as the actuating rod, and everything looks to be fine. I suspect the forcing cone removal has something to do with the problem. Any suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for a great magazine. We doubt the cone’t hat dark ring you can see transitioning from chamber to bore’is the problem. It’s even present in original production barrels where the cone is polished. Other questions arise, however.

You mentioned that the cone was "removed." Did you mean "relieved"? Is the owner holding the shotgun tight to shoulder when firing? Does it function with lead shot but not with steel shot? Have you checked the function with several different brands of ammunition to determine if it’s a powerrelated problem? Has the gun been taken apart and reassembled incorrectly? (Look closely at the barrel ring positioning.) Hopefully, one of these will provide a clue to the source of the problem.

Half-Cocked Winchester I have Winchester Model 62, made in 1935. When on half-cock, it will not lock the bolt. Can you tell me what’s wrong? Thanks for any help you can give me. At half-cock, the hammer of the Model 62 doesn’t block the bolt. It blocks the trigger, which cannot be pulled until the hammer is fully cocked. A slide lock later appeared with the Model 62A. When engaged, it prevented cycling the action.

We trust that helps to answer your question. ican Gunsmith, address your email to ta letter to American Gunsmith Merritt Island, FL 32954.