Reader Forum

Great Western Arms Revolver I have a single-action revolver in my shop that has "Great Western Arms" written across the top of the barrel and uses .45 Long Colt ammo. It’s a single-action revolver. The problem is that when the hammer is pulled back, the cylinder will not rotate, and you can turn the cylinder with the hammer down. The customer noticed a rattling sound when he shook the gun, and took the grips off. When he did, apiece fell out that looked like part of a spring.

I suspect that what happened is the spring broke off of the hand assembly inside, thus causing the problem. I basically need to find parts for this revolver or information on any other revolver parts that would fit this model. Any help would be appreciated. The Great Western Arms Company was set up in 1953 and ceased operation in 1961. In 1953, Colt Manufacturing stopped production of firstgeneration Single Action Army revolvers, and Great Western received permission to revive the revolver.

The only design change made was to separate the firing pin from the hammer and install a rebounding version in the frame. We think you’re right about the hand, either missing or badly beaten up, causing the problem. You should have no trouble locating a replacement, since the Single Action Army is alive and well these days. Remington M4 Disassembly How do I disassemble a Remington Model 4 to remove the bolt, replace the ejector-port cover, and give it a thorough cleaning?

One book said it’s the same as the Model 74, but I can’t find a disassembly procedure for that one, either. You were misinformed. The Remington Model 4 is kin to their Model 742. Instructions appear in Gun Digest’s book of assemble/disassembly for centerfire rifles. Ruger 10/22 Conversion Kit I’m interested in converting a Ruger 10/22 to .17 Mach 2. I’ve found conversion kits from various manufacturers, and I want to know if you would recommend any particular maker of these conversion kits. Thanks.

You have several choices, but we’d recommend parts from Clark Custom or Volquartsen Custom Both make excellent barrels for this conversion. Clark will sell you a barrel with or without a bolt. Volquartsen won’t ship a barrel without a bolt. We strongly suggest you include a bolt with your order. The Mach 2 is a mighty little cartridge compared to the .22 LR. The bolt has to be heavier for the .17 to prevent timing problems.

We’ve been told this need for a beefed-up bolt is one reason Ruger doesn’t offer 10/22 .17 Mach 2 factory conversions. Enfield Keyhole Puncher What will cause a bullet to keyhole the target from an Enfield Jungle Carbine? Nothing stands out as being damaged on the barrel. A keyhole impact on a target is caused when a bullet yaws in flight and "tumbles" due to insufficient spin or wear in the bore at the muzzle end of the barrel.

Severe lead or copper fouling in the barrel reduces contact between the projectile and bore to reduce the spin rate. This fouling may or may not be readily apparent to the naked eye. Using reliable leadand copper-fouling removal compounds, thoroughly clean the barrel including the chamber. Use magnification to inspect for bore damage at or near the muzzle (which may have to be recrowned). After cleaning, make a chamber cast with Cerro Safe (from Brownells). Then run a soft-lead slug from breech to muzzle.

Check both the casting and the slug against S. A. A. M. I. specifications for chamber dimension and bore diameter. In the worst-case scenario, the carbine could be "shot out" and require rebarreling. Help with Noble Model 80 I need assistance finding an assembly/disassembly manual, schematic, and parts for a Noble model 80 .410 shotgun. Any help will be much appreciated. Your shotgun hasn’t been in production since the early to mid-1960s.

We have located parts drawings for Noble pump guns, but none for the autoloader. What we found when we did an internet search on Noble Shotguns was a link to Modern Gun School Training. Clicking on the link and scrolling down, we discovered that part of that training includes drawings, parts interchangeability, and instructions for working the Model 80. We suggest you contact the school to see if they’re willing to provide the information and material you need without having to enroll as a student.

This is merely one of the hazards faced when a gun has been out of production as long as this one. Savagely Treated Savage First, allow me to say that your books and articles have served to advance my gunsmithing edification. Thanks. Now, my question: A client recently brought in a Savage 93R17 (without an Accu Trigger). His story is that a grandson, in an effort to remove the bolt, sheared off the bolt stop.

I can see the top of the trigger assembly though the bottom of the receiver, and there indeed appears to be a sheared part there. Savage does not show a detailed listing of components for their trigger assembly with this model. It would seem excessive to buy the entire trig-

ger assembly for just one component. Do you have any sources of component parts, a trigger-assembly diagram, or any advice on how I should proceed? Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated. If the rifle is a current or reasonably current Model 9317R, it’like all Savage rimfires’has an Accu Trigger. There is no diagram or list of component parts in existence for publication. The closest thing would be the description appearing in the December 04 issue. How old was this grandson?

He must be quite strong and equally ignorant of how to remove the bolt from the rifle (see the November 06 issue). Perhaps he failed to remove the magazine before pulling the trigger. What you see sheared off could be the ejector, magazine release, L-bar screw, or stock-assembly stud. We can’t be sure without seeing the rifle, but these parts are available from Savage or Brownells.

We suggest you call Savage first, provide them with the serial number of the rifle, and determine: (1) it’s equipped with an Accu Trigger; (2) whether or not it can be fitted with one; and if so, (3) how much they would charge for a complete replacement. (They will not sell individual parts for it.) Rem M700 Trigger Adjustment What’s the correct adjusting sequence for the Remington Model 700 trigger adjusting screws? Poundage, creep, overtravel?

I was told years ago that adjustments made using the screws had to be performed in a specific sequence, but I have since lost the formula. Thanks for your help. There are two front screws and one rear screw on the trigger housing. Let’s call the upper front "A," the lower front "B," and the rear "C." Screws A and Bgovern pull and travel respectively. Screw Ccontrols the sear engagement, and should not be moved unless the factory seal is broken. The adjusting sequence goes like this: 1.

Turn A counterclockwise to reduce pull, which is factory set at about 4-1/2 pounds. 2. Turn Bclockwise with the gun cocked until there’s no release of the firing pin when the trigger is pulled. Keep holding the trigger back and turn Bcounterclockwise until the sear releases the firing pin. 3. Reset the sear engagement by backing out Cthree or four turns. Cock the action (don’t touch the trigger) and turn Cback in until the sear releases. Recock the action, keep off the trigger, and back out Ca little bit.

The object here is that the sear shouldn’t release with the action cocked and no contact with the trigger. 4. After you’ve adjusted pull with A, if the gun fails to fire on closing, turn in Ca small amount to reset the trigger. If the gun fires on closing once you’ve selected the pull weight, you must either turn in Cto gain sear contact or increase the weight with A. There will probably be a considerable adjustment needed between A and Cto secure the light but safe, creep-free pull you want.

Be patient and don’t give up on it. S&W Grip Safety I have a Smith & Wesson Model 1911Sc and the grip does not reliably release the grip safety. Not wanting to grind on the factory grip safety, I’ve been trying to find an aftermarket part that fits so I can recontour it. This is giving me fits; I’ve tried three different ones and none work. The Olympic Arms and Baer don’t match the frame contour.

The Wilson fits the frame contour, but the little tab that blocks the trigger has been reduced in Technical Assistance Hotline To access AGA’s Technical-Assistance Hotline, call between 1 and 3 p.m. ET, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday onat all other times, you can send an email to Chick Blood, Technical Editor, width on the left side and just misses the lever that releases the firing-pin block on the S&W.

I’d guess this thinning is there to clear the Series-80 thingamajigs; but I don’t know, never having worked on a Series-80. The gun has been back to the factory twice for this problem, and they say that the safety is "within spec." And, unfortunately, S&W won’t sell me a replacement grip safety that I can grind on. Any ideas? First, we have to wonder: Are your hands large enough to firmly squeeze the grip safety? Assuming they are, we wouldn’t "grind" on anything.

We’d try to lengthen the Wilson or S&W trigger-bow contact tab by carefully peening it on a steel bench block. We’d also check with Wilson to see if it’s possible to build up the nose of the tab sufficiently for good contact and still maintain clearance for the mishmash present at the back end of a Series 80. Replacing Glock Sight I’ve just purchased a Glock 36 .45 caliber for use as a carry gun. Shooting off my bench, it shoots high about 1-1/2 inches at 10 yards.

The rear sight is fixed in a dovetail, but the front post looks like it is made with the slide. Is there away to change the front sight to a taller one, or is it best to find an adjustable rear sight that will adjust out the high shooting? Thanks for your help. We don’t have the latest sight data from Glock, but what we do have states that they have a 6.1/.024-inch front available for the low-impact

(continued from previous page) problem. High sights are also available (.029 and .027), and a click adjustable rear goes from 6.1 mm to 7.3 mm. There may have been engineering or design changes made that we’re not aware of, whereby the front sight became a molded-in part of the slide.

We don’t think that’s the case, but you might want to check it out with Glock Assuming there’s been no change to a one-piece sight/slide, you can remove the front sight by locking the slide upside down in a protected vise and knocking the sight out with a punch and light hammer. After inserting a replacement blade, press it flush against the slide, invert the slide, and position the new sight downward against a smooth but solid surface. Insert a Glock-provided fixing pin into the front sight.

Use your punch and hammer to seat the pin and expand the sight tang. Light-Hitting Taurus Do you have any experience with the Taurus Millennium? Mine has developed a habit of light strikes on the primer, with no ignition. This happens with any ammo, maybe one time out of 10. It does this more often with reloads, but still happens with factory ammo. I got all new springs from Taurus’no help. It seems possible that the slide doesn’t close completely, but it shouldn’t function out of battery.

I was going to send it back to Taurus, but a buddy said that he had the same problem, sent it back, and when it was returned, it still did same thing. Therefore, I’m reluctant to return it. Do you think the chamber could be too tight? We assume you’re speaking of the PT111 which was the subject of a feature article in the February 01 issue. Your pistol is under a lifetime factory warranty.

And it’s a good thing it is, too, because it can’t be fully disassembled by anyone except a factory technician, due to the nature of its three main retaining pins. They are intentionally constructed to collapse if an attempt is made to drift them out. However, the slide can be removed from the frame, and your problem could be related to drag between those two components. We suggest you try this: Under magnification, look carefully for burrs or rough spots.

If you find any, smooth them up, lubricate the slide/frame rails, and reassemble the pistol. DA-Pistol Safety I have a question: I work out at the gym with a number of Sheriff’s Department Investigators, and most of them say they carry their double-action pistols loaded and cocked. They feel that this is safe. But, if their pistols are cocked all of the time, won’t that eventually weaken the hammer spring?

From a repair standpoint, I would think that, at some time when they need it most, they could have misfires due to low hammer-spring tension. I surely would appreciate your input. If your investigators have decockerequipped pistols, the pressure on the mainspring is relieved when the hammer is forward. The same would be true of DA-only pistols, as long as the hammer is forward.

Conversely, when a DA-only pistol is cocked, it does exert continuous pressure on the mainspring and could cause it to take a "set." This is also true of magazinefollower springs in a magazine left fully charged over an extended period of time, which could cause feeding problems. Beyond that, we question the safety of a DA-only pistol being carried cocked with around in the chamber. There is always the possibility that the weapon could be dropped, impacting the hammer, and resulting in an unintentional discharge.

BL-17 Mag Tubes Have you had a chance to check out the BL-17 from Browning? I would like to know how they get the .17 Mach 2 to feed through a tubular magazine without jamming. I’ve seen an older style .22 rifle somewhere where you pulled the magazine tube forward of the muzzle, loaded the tube, and then released the tube to go back into position. Are there any similarities between this and the Browning design? Thanks.

Not only have we checked it out, a feature article on the rifle appeared in the February 06 issue. Our interest in the gun evolved as a result of the .17 MK2 tubular magazine jamming solution arrived at by Browning engineers. All of your questions regarding the BL-17 are answered in that article except for the final one. To that we say: "No." You’ll see why when you read the article.