Reader Forum

Restoration and Refinishing Feedback I’ve been meaning to tell you that since joining The American Gunsmithing Association I have been looking through old issues for the perfect "restoration" article. I have now found it, thanks to you! Please pass on to Bill Larson my thanks! His article "Gunstock Restoration and Refinishing" in the August 2005 issue is the most complete, detailed, and "loving" article I have ever read! The best word to describe it is perfect! As a fellow Scandinavian would say, mange tusund takk!

A thousand thanks! David A. Jarratt Newton, Massachusetts I just finished the August issue of American Gunsmith and was very impressed with Bill Larson’s article "Gunstock Restoration and Refinishing." The man has a command of the English language seldom found in articles published by gun magazines. I like the idea that he proofreads his material before releasing it.

Please encourage him to write on some related subjects: installing butt pads, glass bedding, the finer points of inletting, and bedding synthetic stocks. You might even consider giving him a bonus for his August article. Can you ask him what is his opinion of the commercial product "Lin Speed" as a stock finish. Two stocks I refinished with Lin Speed in the 1950s as a teenager are still in very good condition. Larry Collins Escondido, California Thanks, David and Larry.

Your faithful editor will take a little of the credit for the language and proofreading, but will let Bill Larson respond to the question about Lin Speed. Bill Larson responds: I have used Lin Speed to finish some gunstocks. I find it easy to use and also easy to repair. I find it very suitable for reconditioned military-rifle stocks. Like other boiled or refined linseed-oil finishes, it contains dryers to accelerate oxidation or dry times.

I would suggest purchasing Lin Speed in small quantities—only enough to complete the job at hand. Once opened, any lengthy storage periods will thicken or degrade the oil. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions closely. Pour a small amount on a folded aluminum-foil patch, enough for a single application and immediately close the original container. Another tip I could suggest is, as the container of finish is used, drop a few clean marbles, ball bearings, or even clean pebbles into the container.

This practice will raise the liquid level to the top of the container and displace the air which will help the product last longer. Be sure anything you drop in the container is clean or washed in mineral spirits so it will not contaminate the product. Two Questions I have a couple of guns I’m working on that I hope you can help me with. Number 1 is an 1894 Springfield rifle in 30/40 Krag that I need to put a scope on. What’s the best mount to use to get a strong stable base?

The other gun I have is a 12-gauge auto shotgun that I need a link fork and gas rings for. The problem is the only name on the gun is "made by Addis for Kassnar Imports." Do you know who made this gun and a source for parts? Any info you give me would be greatly appreciated. Dave Sounds to us like you have a Krag/ Jorgensen made by the old Springfield Armory between 1892 and 1899. A one-piece base spanning both ways beyond the bolt opening in the receiver would serve well.

A blank base stock is available from Brownells. You’ll have to cut, then contour it to fit the receiver, and drill it and the receiver Technical Assistance Hotline To access AGA’s Technical-Assistance Hotline, call between 1 and 3 p.m. ET, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday only. For assistance at all other times, you can send an email to Chick Blood, Technical Editor, at for four mounting screws. Be certain the base will accommodate the chosen scope rings.

All base and ring screws should be secured with blue Lok Tite and the scope must be mounted high enough to clear the bolt handle. This will avoid the need for bending the handle downward. Kassnar imports no longer brings in the "Addis" shotgun. You might try contacting Jim Heverling at KBI, Inc., Harrisburg, PA 17112). He may be able to steer you to a parts source. Weatherby Trigger I have a question about a trigger for a Weatherby Mark 5.

My cousin had rechambered my 300 WBY to a 30- 378, and in the process had broken the trigger about in half. I had a heck of a time just getting the gun back so I never said anything, but have tried trigger shoes without any luck. So my real question is: Can I get just the trigger from somebody, or is this a restricted item? Nobody seems to make an aftermarket assembly. I can replace the trigger myself as I’ve done enough of this on other rifles. Thank you for your time and cooperation.

I live in Alaska so maybe someone up here can help out instead of shipping it south. Thanks. Doug Maybe you can get through to Weatherby Customer Service Doug. We tried four times to check on trigger availability and got a recorded voice saying: "Sorry, your call did not go through." We heard the same recording when we called the main office number If they won’t send you a replacement after you’ve spoken with a real human being, and you have both pieces of the broken trigger, there’s

(continued from previous page) probably a welding shop in your area that can TIG or MIG it together. Then you can smooth up the weld with fine files and stones, reinstall the trigger, and hopefully go on shooting without further irritation. High Standard Feeding Problems I have a .22-caliber Model 80 pistol which as you know was sold by Sears and made by High-Standard. The gun was purchased over 40 years ago by me and my dad as a birthday present to us both. I took title to it some years ago after Dad passed away.

Some years ago it began jamming frequently, at least once a magazine. It’s gotten worse; since I got it, it jams almost every other shot. It will work fine ejecting by hand. You can empty the entire magazine with no problem. However, when firing, it jams almost every ejection. I have disassembled and vigorously cleaned it several times and tried anew slide spring with no success. I was next planning to rebuild the magazine and purchase anew spring and follower. However, I am having some difficulty installing them.

The magazine has a small button through the follower that allows you to draw down the follower to aid loading and also acts as the stop to keep the follower from coming out through the top of the magazine. I have not been able to remove it to replace the spring and follower. The new follower came without the button or the holding mechanism; it just has a hole for the button stem. Can you tell me how to take this out and replace the spring and follower in the magazine?

If you have any information on frequent causes of jamming in these pistols other than what I am trying, I would appreciate your advice. Also, do you have any back issue articles on this gun or similar High Standard pistols that may be of use. Thanks.

Andy Your Model 80 Higgins is a twin of the High Standard Model 101, also known as the "Sport King" and "Flite King." In his mini-bible on this H-S pistol and other models, author Burr Leyson described removal of the magazine button and we paraphrase his words here: Use a flat metal bar to depress the follower until the button is aligned with its rounded cutout in the magazine slot. Grab the button with smooth-jaw pliers and pull it out.

Ease off the pressure on the spring until the follower and spring can be lifted from the top of the magazine. The spring should be 15-1/2 coils in length. All H-S pistols were factory tested with a specific brand of ammunition to assure the cartridge was released by the magazine straight into the chamber. This avoids deforming or other damage and was/is one reason H-S pistols were known for their accuracy. We don’t know the brand of ammo used in testing your pistol.

We do know it was not match-quality ammunition and we doubt the fodder you are now using is the same brand. Since .22 dimensions differ manufacturer to manufacturer, the ammo you’re using could differ significantly from the original test cartridges, thus resulting in feeding problems. If the bullet is hitting high on the chamber edge when it’s released from the magazine, the rear lips must be tightened. If hitting low, the front lips are tightened.

These adjustments are to be made in very small increments with smooth-jaw parallel-opening pliers. Each bullet you charge into the magazine must be pristine. (Even better, coat each with Dy Kem to make spotting the location of any contact with the chamber edge easier.) You’ve already replaced the driving spring. A weak one is another cause for feeding problems, but you may need a fresh magazine spring as well. Also check the chamber edges for a burr and make sure your firing pin isn’t sticking.

Le Fever Disassembly I own a Model 55318DS Le Fever Shotgun that I want to disassemble and am having difficulties with it. I need to get it apart in order to work on it. Can you supply any information on disassembling this gun? Richard Stein The Blue Book tells us Le Fever Arms was sold to Ithaca Gun Co. in 1916 and Le Fever shotguns were made under that arrangement until shortly after WWII.

We’ve been unable to locate disassembly instructions but did get an answer from the Le Fever Gun Co., formerly located in Le Center, New York. Now Giacomo Sporting, they no longer perform any mechanical work, only bluing/case hardening and wood refinishing. They were nice enough to suggest you contact the Alamo Gun Shop whose operator might be willing and able to help you. Good luck.