Proper Stock-Blank Selection And Reinforcement

Every now and then, I come across a rifle that has been improperly stocked. What I mean by improperly stocked is that the stock blank was not properly matched to the caliber of the rifle being stocked. Stock selection becomes more critical as recoil forces increase. In the case illustrated here, it was a rather nice looking commercial Mauser action, chambered for the .30-06. This action was mated to a straight-grained walnut.

The density of the wood was poor and the bedding technique was inadequate, setting the stage for extensive stock damage. The .30-06 is not a Magnum-class cartridge, but still managed to split this little stock from recoil lug to comb. With a properly chosen stock blank or with the help of adequate reinforcement, this damage would never have occurred. Stock-Blank Selection Proper grain layout is the first priority in stock-blank selection, and the blank should preferably be quarter-sawn.

The density of the wood is the next criterion. Density is what gives the stock its strength, balance, and handling qualities; the greater the density, the greater the stock’s resistance to the shock of recoil. Overall color of the wood, along with the grain pattern or "figuring" are other considerations, though these last two criteria are important primarily from the standpoint of esthetics. These points were laid down for us by stockmakers long ago.

They believed that, combined with precision inletting, the proper selection of the stock blank was the primary requirement of their craft. I agree with that, of course, but especially when dealing with magnum calibers and less-than-perfect wood blanks, the addition of reinforcement should be considered. Precision Inletting All action recoil and support bearing points within the stock should be precisely fitted.

The photo of the Mauser action at the top of the next page shows the important recoil and bearing points; other bolt actions will be similar. At the front of the action, just behind the inletting pin at point "A," is the recoil-lug shoulder. It has to make even contact with the stock lug to stop rearward movement of the action upon firing. At point "B," behind the magazine opening, is an important bearing point, as is the step-up at point "C" and the tang at point "D." Points "A" and "D" are the anchor points.

Other considerations would be inletting of the magazine box, with no contact front or rear, and no contact at the rear of the tang or action screws. Following this criteria, reinforcement would not be necessary. Whenever there is doubt concerning the quality of the stock used with a stout recoiling rifle, reinforcement should be considered. Reinforcing the Stock Lug There are several methods that can be used to reinforce the stock lug. One that has been in use for quite some time is a threaded steel rod.

This is placed through the stock, just behind the recoil shoulder. You may have noticed them on the older military bolt-action rifles. The threaded rod

does its job well, but would look out of place on a custom rifle. Another method used is "glass" (or epoxy) bedding, which is also quite effective. I’ve used both methods with good success for many years. There is, however, another method I use quite often, and I’ll use the remainder of this article to share it with you. The modification I’m referring to can be seen in the photo below. It consists of three parts, made from aluminum. The arrow points to the tang plate, the other two make up the recoil shield.

The next photo shows the parts in place. The three parts are made from 1/16- by 3/4-inch rectangular bar stock, which can be found in just about any hardware store. Note: This modification is for flat-bottom bolt-action receivers only. The modification is actually quite simple, requiring only a small (sharp) chisel, a small fine-tooth file, finetoothed hacksaw, drill bit, a small ruler, and a strong-bonding epoxy.

Inletting pins are nice, if you have them, but are not necessary for this procedure, just as long as you keep the hole in the tang plate lined up with your action screw. The first thing we want to do is take some measurements, transfer these to your bar stock, and cut the pieces to size. File off any sharp edges. Place the tang plate in a small vice and drill the hole. If you’re off a little you can use around file to line it up with the action screw or pin.

Rough up one side of all three plates or use a punch like I did on those shown in the photos. This gives the epoxy something to grab onto. Precision inletting is the next task. The photo (below right) will give you a good idea of what you’re trying to accomplish. Make sure your measurements are marked correctly on the stock before you start to remove any wood. You want to fit these plates flush with the wood.

You’ll want to take your time, and insert the action into the stock repeatedly as you progress to make sure all bearing points are making contact. Remove 1/16 inch from the tang area, again making sure all bearing points are making contact, and leaving a little room for the epoxy. We want the action to bottom in the stock, right where it should be. Epoxy bonding is the next and final step.

With the glue applied and the plates in place, put a little release agent or grease—it doesn’t take much—on the areas of the action that might come into contact with the epoxy. Place the action into the stock and lock it down with the action screws. Set the assembly aside, allowing the time necessary for the bonding agent to cure. Finally, remove the action (continued on page 21)

from the stock and clean up any release agent or epoxy as needed. wood that was used was probably not necessary, but this technique can be very helpful when you’re called upon to bed a stock made of inferior wood. Conclusions/Recommendations This modification will give you rock-solid stability, considerably more strength at the stock lug, eliminate wood compression, and enhance accuracy. You might have noticed from the photos that the stock that I was working on here is not walnut; it’s maple.

The density of the grain structure and strength of maple are superior to walnut. Considering the quality of the stock Finally, I recommend two good sources for additional information on stock selection and fitting. One is Gun Digest’s Book of Riflesmithing by Jack Mitchell; the other is the NRA Gunsmithing Guide-Updated. ■