Profile of the Kimber Custom II, Part 2

Last month, I covered disassembly and cleaning of the Kimber Custom Series II. In this issue, we’ll make a complete inspection of the parts, and cover reassembly and troubleshooting. If you’ve worked with an M1911 to any degree, you should be pretty familiar with the function of its action. The Kimber Series II, like the one here, is an M1911 clone, but contains elements you probably won’t know much about. One of them is the firing-pin lock.

It both secures the firing pin in the slide and prevents inertial movement. Among other things, this should defeat a possible discharge if the muzzle is impacted rearward while chambering alive round. The grip safety on the Series II performs the same as it does on other M1911s. When it’s not depressed, it blocks the trigger. Ah, but on the Series II, it does more. The grip safety, when engaged, also moves the firing-pin lock plunger up through its cut in the frame next to the disconnector.

The firing-pin lock is thereby raised to allow the firing pin free movement when struck by the hammer. Moving On with the Inspection I prefer to start with the frame. The ejector should be straight, have no burrs, and be seated firmly against the frame so it doesn’t wiggle. The top of the frame by the hammer well must show no sign of raised metal. As you know, this can happen when the hammer is allowed to fall full force on a frame unprotected by the slide.

Any raised metal can be stoned away, but you have to be careful not to lower that upper surface area in the process. Check the feed ramp and barrel bed, located just forward of the ramp, to make certain they haven’t been altered or damaged. Find any indication of hanky-panky or peening? Too bad. The frame has to be replaced. Surface inspection of the hammer well, slide, and frame rails is in order. Especially the rails. Look for dents, galling, bending, nicks, or serious wear.

Most minor damage can be stoned back to proper tolerances. How about that plunger tube? Does it have any dents or nicks? Check the grip-screw bushings. They have to be tight and must not extend into the magazine well. The butt of the grip frame, if bent or dented, can make installing the mainspring housing more than a simple matter. A disconnector tunnel that is round and free of burrs is good. One that is elongated or enlarged is bad. Very bad. Again, the frame will have to be replaced.

On Series II pistols, the firing-pin lock-plunger hole should be round, without burrs and free of fouling. Inspecting the Slide The sights must fit their dovetails tightly. Any roughness on the breechface should be stoned away. The

Any and all lead deposits must be removed prior to the use of FMJ ammunition. firing-pin hole is to be round and free of burrs. Likewise the firing-pin stop recesses. Apply stones judiciously to remove imperfections. Do the same, if necessary, with the disconnector rail. The barrel is next on the list. No lead fouling, bulges, or rings in the bore are allowed. Neither is muzzle damage. The chamber must be free of scratches or roughness; they might make feeding or extracting less than optimal.

The ramp and throat are examined for proper angles and mating with the frame bed. To double check, secure the barrel in the frame with the slide stop and pivot it rearward. Desired result: The barrel comes to rest on the bed and displays a 1/32-inch clearance between the lower barrel ramp and the top of the frame feed ramp. Failure to meet the desired result could indicate burrs or flanging in the barrel-locking lugs and/or the link-pin hole.

Burrs or flanging can be removed by stoning them only to the original surface of the lugs. The link pin should fit its hole firmly. If very loose, replace the link and, if absolutely necessary, the barrel. If loose, but without play in the hole, stake the edges of the hole with a center punch. The perfect time to check the headspace is before the pistol leaves your shop.

Besides, if the gun is under warranty and hasn’t been in the hands of strange people who fumbled with it in ways voiding the warranty, correcting a headspace problem is the factory’s problem, not yours. Headspace is checked with "go" and "no-go" gauges, with barrel and bushing installed, stripped slide on the frame, and slide-lock pin through the barrel link. With the go gauge inserted in the chamber, the barrel should move into its locked position without the use of force.

If there is no lockup, the chamber will need finish reaming or the barrel must be replaced. Remove the go gauge and chamber the no-go gauge. You should not be able to move the barrel into locked position. If the action closes on the no-go gauge, the gun is unsafe and the barrel must be replaced. Small Parts Inspection If the firing pin is anything other than straight, round, and smooth, replace it. But be aware of the fact that there’s a difference between early Kimber firing pins and those used in the Series II.

They’re not interchangeable. The firing-pin lock needs a onceover in search of rough spots and a worn or bent leg. The part should drop freely into its slide recess and move up and down easily. No drag, no binding. See if there’s any damage to the firing-pin lock spring while you’re in the area. While I’m on the subject, if the firing-pin spring shows a tapering down in diameter toward the front of the pin, it is unsafe and must be replaced.

The same is true for a cracked firing-pin stop plate and a slide-stop pin measuring less than .196 inch in diameter where the barrel link and lugs bear on it. The extractor calls for more than a little attention. To make sure it has proper tension, install it in the slide and secure it in place with the firing-pin stop. (The barrel is removed for this test.) Slide a dummy cartridge up the breechface. It should slip under the extractor with only mild resistance and apply pressure only to the case rim.

If the extractor is too tight (high resistance), decrease the bend between its hook and first lug. If too light (no resistance), increase the bend. Factory specification for proper tension is 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 pounds. When the extractor is mounted in the frame, there should be no rubbing between it and the ejector, and the latter should have no play whatsoever. Achieving that status sometimes requires installation of anew ejector. Okay, I reach for my Dremel tool and chuck in a 1/8-inch ball cutter.

Turning it at moderate speed for better control, I remove some of the crimp from the tube-assembly studs on the inner surface of the magazine well. I fill the well with a magazine insert (Brownells), and secure the grip frame between padded vise jaws. Grab the plunger tube with a pair of pliers and pull out the ejector like a sore tooth? No way. Run a length of .080-inch wire through the plunger tube, twist the wire ends together, then grab the ends and pull straight out.

To finish up the replacement, I go back in with the ball cutter and touch the inner frame-stud holes to lightly countersink them. After cleaning the holes up, I apply some blue Lok-Tite to each one and insert a 7/64-inch length of drill rod into the plunger tube for support. The extractor studs are then tapped carefully into their holes with the small-diameter end of the tube facing forward.

A plunger-staking tool (Brownells) will firmly seat the new studs into the countersinks, after which they are stoned down flush with the frame surface. As long as the extractor is solidly seated, a dented plunger tube is no

A Word to our Readers about American Gunsmith’s Mailing-List Policy Like many other publishers, we make portions of our customer list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services we believe you may enjoy. Indeed, in all likelihood, we were able to first reach you only because another company graciously permitted us access to its customer list.

If, when we make our list available, you do not want to receive those offers and/or information, please let us know by contacting us at American Gunsmith Opt-Out Program, Norwalk, CT 06854-1631. Please be sure to include your current mailing label. cause to remove or replace it. Dents can be ironed out by inserting the length of 7/64th drill rod into the rear of the tube and tapping it very lightly forward until it stops against the slide-stop plunger-retaining shoulder at the front of the tube.

We mustn’t forget the disconnector, people. Factory length is 1.305 inches. If it’s less than 1.295 inches, junk it and replace it. Other useful dimesions include .25-inch depth and 90-degree angle for the hammer full-cock notch; overall length of a relaxed recoil spring for full-size models of not less than 5.840 inches; and a .008- to .010-inch clearance between the recoil-spring plug and the entire length of the guide rod. Finally, you don’t want to overlook any obviously broken, damaged, or out-of-round parts.

Reassembling the Pistol Normally, the frame would have the ejector, plunger tube, and grip-screw bushings already in place, unless you had to repair/replace them as a result of your small parts inspection. Insert the trigger (adjustment screw at the bottom) into its frame channel. Assemble the magazine catch. Place its spring into the hole in the right side. Insert the pin of the catch lock into the spring coils.

Press inward, aligning the locking tab with the slot running parallel to the spring. (A 1/6-inch hex wrench can be of help here.) When the tab reaches the slot, turn the lock counterclockwise. Drop the assembly into the frame from the right. As you turn the lock clockwise with the hex wrench from the right side, push in on the catch button from the left side until the lock rotates about 90 degrees and engages its frame slot. Rest the frame on its right side. Push the trigger bow fully forward.

Install the firing-pin lock plunger (pushrod) into its frame recess with the looped end downward and its nose extending through the top. Eventually, the pushrod will be retained by the sear pin. Maneuver the pistol so you’re looking into the action from the rear. Install the disconnector into its frame recess next to the pushrod. The lower, flat end of the disconnector should rest on the trigger bow.

Place the sear over the disconnector with its upper engagement surface to the top of the frame and pointing toward you. Insert the sear pin from the left with the beveled head out. The usual jiggle-wiggle of the sear and disconnector will follow and be only slightly complicated by the additional aligning of the pushrod loop prior to pushing the sear pin in flush with the frame. Aside from Bthis minor annoyance, or as noted elsewhere, reassembly follows that of any M1911.

I should bring up a specific caution when working with the Kimber Series II, however. After cocking the hammer in preparation for joining the slide assembly and frame, the finger must be off the trigger and the grip safety must not be disengaged (pressed) during the reunion. If the hammer is allowed to fall, damage to the firing-pin lock plunger will result. Other Reassembly Tips Never attempt to drive the slide stop into place against any resistance from the slide-stop plunger.

Use a jeweler’s screwdriver to press in the nose of the plunger as you apply upward and inward pressure to the slide stop. Make sure the open end of the recoil spring is under the recoil plug and the closed end of the spring is over the guide rod. A If and when replacements are required, use only Kimber factory parts for the specific model. Parts manufactured by others will not only void the warranty, but could cause malfunctions or unsafe conditions for which Kimber would no longer be liable.

With the company thereby removed from litigation, that leaves you. Troubleshooting There isn’t a better time than now to bring up the too-often ignored problem of barrel leading. Kimber recommends the use of jacketed factory

Cause Solution Failure to feed/chamber Adjust extractor tension; clear and clean barrel; change ammunition; dress back lower barrel edge; re-throat and polish barrel; polish and/or replace barrel link; replace damaged magazine; polish feed ramp (when damage is severe, frame must be replaced); dress breechface or replace slide if severe; reinstall magazine spring properly.

Problem Stovepipe jams Shooter education; adjust tension; replace extractor; use lighter spring; switch to full-power ammunition; replace ejector. Erratic ejection Adjust tension; replace spring; change ammunition or use heavier recoil spring; shorten ejector nose; refit or replace ejector. Failure to unlock Ammunition (live?) stuck in chamber; barrel/barrel Remove round; inspect for damage and replace lug/link pin or slide stop damaged. damaged parts as necessary.

Failure to lock Slide-stop pin not through link; debris in slide, Properly install slide stop; clean out debris; replace locking the lugs; broken/damaged barrel lugs; barrel, link, and pin; replace bushing. damaged or out-of-round bushing; bulged barrel; broken link/link pin or slide stop. Failure to extract Adjust tension; replace and adjust extractor hook; replace barrel or polish chamber; clean chamber; replace recoil spring; use factory ammo.

Slide binding/dragging (possibly also affecting feeding and ejection) Doubling/full-auto Or failures to cock Cocking is stiff Possibly straighten or if not possible replace hammer strut; install new hammer-strut pin, stone burrs; stake pin in place; replace mainspring, polish mainspring tunnel in housing. ammunition in its pistols, and they do so for good reasons. Homemade stuff being much cheaper, you’re bound to deal with barrels, Kimber and otherwise, that have been fed a fairly steady diet of lead bullets.

Depending on the alloy, these can Extractor tension too tight; fouled or damaged chamber; out-of-spec ammunition; less than 1/32-inch jump from ramp to barrel; tired magazine spring; non-factory magazine; damaged feed lips or follower; rough or damaged feed ramp; rough breech face on slide; barrel obstruction; magazine spring installed upside down. Limp wristing; extractor tension too light; extractor hook broken or damaged; recoil spring too heavy; weak ammunition; ejector broken or bent.

Improper extractor tension; weak/binding/deformed recoil spring; over-powered ammunition; loose ejector in frame. Extractor tension too light; extractor hook worn or broken; rough chamber; dirty chamber; recoil spring too light or worn; over-pressure ammunition.

Hammer strut bent or out of place; burrs/dents/fouling on rails; firing-pin stop isn’t retained by firing pin; galled or bent recoil spring guide rod; deformed recoil spring; binding firing pin lock mechanism; broken/ peened/bent lower lugs, link pin, or slide stop; link too long or binding on frame; cracks in frame or slide.

Sear/hammer hooks damaged or providing insuffi Replace both sear and hammer; replace disconnector; cient engagement; disconnector is worn or broken; replace hammer; replace or reposition sear spring. half-cock hammer notch damaged or broken; sear spring weak, broken, or out of place. Hammer strut bent; hammer-strut pin dragging or loose; mainspring dragging in housing. leave heavy deposits behind in the rifling. Obviously, this causes a loss of accuracy.

Seldom mentioned in the same breath are the more sinister conditions of increased pressure and a resulting structural failure of the barrel. Even the hardest lead slugs Replace or reposition the strut; stone, true, and clean rails; replace stop and/or firing pin; replace guide rod; replace recoil spring; clean lock parts and recesses; stone or replace link parts; replace slide/frame. leave some fouling in their wake.

Kimber insists, and I strongly second their insistence, that this fouling must be removed prior to using any jacketed ammunition to avoid the risk of a bulged or ruptured barrel. Most fouling problems can be

Slide fails to lock open Bend follower dogleg to engage stop or replace follower; replace magazine spring; restake or replace plunger tube; replace slide stop; replace slide. Premature slide lock Replace plunger and spring; reform plunger tube or replace plunger assembly; replace recoil spring; replace slide stop. Thumb safety binds Reform tube or replace assembly; replace thumb safety; replace grip or relieve binding area; stone burrs or replace safety; stone hammer pin’s head or replace.

Hammer falls, thumb safety engaged Hammer falls, grip safety engaged Hammer fails to fall, safeties disengaged Trigger binds Clean frame slots; bend trigger bow to fit or replace; repair or replace trigger bow; stone to align trigger bow or replace. Trigger pull gritty Replace hammer and/or sear; stone extension of grip safety for clearance; replace sear and/or disconnector.

Trigger pull too heavy Peened or rough sear/hammer engagement; sear- Replace sear, hammer, or both; re-bend or replace spring center leaf too heavy; sear spring out of line. sear spring; reposition sear spring. Trigger pull too light Worn or altered sear/hammer engagement sur Replace hammer, sear, or both; re-bend or replace faces; center leaf of sear spring too light; worn or sear spring, replace mainspring. altered mainspring.

Magazine fails to eject cleanly Magazine well severely fouled; binding on trigger bow; grip bushings intruding into magazine well; follower overriding slide stop; magazine catch fouled or damaged; magazine damaged. eliminated with a quality solvent, liberally applied, and allowed to "work" at least 10 minutes before the bore is scrubbed with a tight-fitting bronze brush.

That failing, ridding the rifling of its deposit will require more solvent, more "working," more Magazine follower overriding slide stop; magazine spring weak; plunger tube loose; slide stop broken or peened; slide-stop cut in slide worn. Slide stop plunger not applying enough force to slide stop; plunger tube bent or otherwise damaged; recoil spring weak; none of the above.

Plunger tube damaged; bent thumb safety; right grip panel binding on retaining extension of ambidextrous safety (if present); damage to sear engagement lugs of safety; dragging on hammer pin. Insufficient sear engagement with safety. Replace safety and/or sear. Damaged or too short grip-safety nose; notched or Replace grip safety; replace the trigger, re-bend damaged trigger bow; weak or broken right-hand or replace sear spring. leaf of sear spring.

Hammer strut bent or broken; insufficient trigger overtravel; insufficient clearance of grip safety to trigger bow; burred or otherwise damaged disconnector; hammer-strut pin binding on frame. Frame slots fouled; trigger bow too wide/narrow and binds on frame; burrs or damage to trigger bow; trigger shoe out of alignment with frame. Rough sear/hammer-engagement surfaces; trigger bow dragging on grip safety; disconnector not fully engaging sear. scrubbing, and, in stubborn cases, a Lewis Lead Remover (Brownells).

The troubleshooting table above shows possible malfunctions along with their causes (in the order of probability) and their solutions. Except for the extra care demanded Replace hammer strut; adjust overtravel by turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise in 1/4-turn increments until no drag is felt when the hammer is manually lowered; stone for clearance or replace grip safety; stone or replace disconnector; reset hammer-strut pin and stake in place.

Clean mag well with brush and solvent; bend trigger bow for clearance or replace trigger; stone grip bushing(s) flush; adjust follower or replace; clean, repair and/or replace catch assembly; polish/ reform magazine or replace. of you due to the precision construction of Kimber Series II pistols—and matters involving the firing-pin lock assembly, including the pushrod— these troubleshooting hints generally apply to all other M1911 clones. Sometimes we get lucky, folks. ■