Getting to Know the Savage TRR-SR

Before digging in to this new Savage I want to start out with a few comments about .22 rifles. More specifically, .22 rifles primarily intended for highly competitive target use. That would definitely include indoor gallery matches. Ever fi red in one? Ever seen one fi red? There, .22s are on steroids. Buck naked, meaning without the scopes they often wear and not further burdened with sizable hand rests for the offhand stage of a match, they’ll weigh in at 10 to 12 pounds.

Their barrels will equal the diameter of a quarter – or bigger. The exit holes at their muzzles from which they’ll expel 40 grain nuggets at ten bull’s eyes no larger than the head of a common pin never exceed 0.224 inches. The steel of their receivers will be of far sterner stuff than required for the negligible pressure generated by a standard velocity .22 LR cartridge. They do share a couple of characteristics in common. All will be single shot bolt actions. All are members of the royal family among rimfi res.

But wait. I haven’t yet mentioned the shooters who pull the sensitive, light, crisply-breaking triggers of these rifles from prone, kneeling/ sitting and standing positions, then peer after each shot through spotting scopes with 45 degree angled eye pieces. These folk, like their rifles, area special breed. They arrive at the range packing gear enough, so it seems, for a safari. The hard case containing their smallbore rifle could comfortably house a Civil War-era Springfi eld Model 1861 Rifle-Musket, caliber .58.

Their shooting mat, shooting jacket, cleaning rod, a range box containing ammunition and a tall stand onto which they’ll clamp their spotting scope are rolled through the door in a vertical, sturdier facsimile of a supermarket shopper’s cart. When on the line, they wear the most efficient of ear muffs made totally impervious to any sound by first stuffi ng wads of cotton into the ears under the muffs.

This ear stuffing practice is not uncommon amongst the centerfire rifle and handgun crowd to enhance hearing protection. Among gallery shooters it’s all about enhancing protection against distractions. I assure you, I have overheard verbal abuse surpassing that of a crusty Marine Drill Instructor dressing down a recruit hurled in the direction of a Gallery Match observer who had the unmitigated nerve to laugh too loudly at a joke he’d been told.

The abuse originated with the competitor on target number three as I recall. She was in the prone position on her shooting mat, twisted her head around to locate her offender, lowered the barrel of her personal member of Royalty from its point of aim and switched on the deep blue invective. That this caused her fellow shooters far greater distraction belayed her not. Nor they. One by one, all turned their heads toward the offending laugher wearing deep, accusing scowls behind their shooting glasses.

The victim of their haughty scorn, thoroughly cowed, clamped his lips tightly together and, treading light as he possibly could, tiptoed out the range door backward before closing it—silently—behind him. I was frankly surprised he hadn’t bowed his out backward as well. Isn’t that how ordinary people are supposed to humble themselves when leaving the presence of those born of higher birthrights?

I only bring that up because the whole incident reminded me of a movie I’d once seen where an individual who had unknowingly offended a queen holding court and backed out of the vast, opulent chamber at the dismissive wave of Her Majesty’s hand. All too many gallery competitors are like that one on target number three. Their rimfi res are royalty. Ergo, they feel they associate with royalty and tend to sneer or be easily annoyed by those who do not.

Most of them would not allow a TRR-SR to be housed in the same gun safe as their titled shooting iron. The balance of this article, then, will ignore all royalty and bring into focus the interests of individuals who have an affection for rimfire rifles of less than noble heritage. I, proudly, number myself amongst the latter. I still own and fi re the little Winchester my Dad gave me when I was age fi ve. It was serenely accurate then and remains so to this day.

I consider the TRR-SR to be a well thought out, well executed example of a rimfire lacking a posh pedigree while making itself warmly welcomed in a far larger market composed of citizens who have never been near a royal court and hold no desire to be remotely associated with one. They will find this rifle suits them well. Though the TRR is not a purist’s idea of a tactical rifle it can be slightly modifi ed to look more like one. At the end of its barrel is a threaded stud normally protected by a twopiece cap.

Where permitted by local laws, a suppressor can be turned onto the stud thereby reducing risk of hearing loss to an air rifle level. In the event such sound suppressors are illegal for civilian ownership in a city, town or state, any macho desires or tendencies may have to be satis- When uncocked the cocking piece moves downward to the lower notch (B).

This view of the rear bolt body shows the cocking piece retaining pin (C) and the larger hole (D) in the rear body through which the hammer engagement pin is accessed. D

fi ed with a muzzle brake. Both addons are available from Savage. I offer the following and will expect much critical email regarding it: A silencer-equipped TRR can serve as a useful substitute for a similarly-equipped larger caliber rifle in the tactical training of LEOs. Why? Indeed, why not. Suppose you were responsible for training in a 100+ officer police department.

Under present economic conditions and the budgetary restrictions they bring, there’s no comparison failing to favor the discharge of several hundred rounds of twenty two caliber down range rather than an equal number of .223 centerfi re rounds. After conversing with several tactical weapons types at this year’s SHOT Show I am very sure the ammunition cost differential has been a signifi cant factor with some noted and even "wannabe" AR-15 producers.

You mean you haven’t noticed An optional muzzle brake or suppressor can be attached to it. Above the stud is the protective screw-on cap. Savage bolts do not interchange. Each has been individually fit to one action and is suitable for no other without repeating the fitting process. the number of "look-just-alikes" being brought out, chambered for and working very well on .22 LR? Field Stripping You may wisely choose to Xerox and fi le the TRR parts list and schematic appearing with this article.

They do not show up in an owner’s manual and, at the moment, no one at Sav- Weight of pull is adjusted with the unique, factory-supplied tool beneath the springs into which it is inserted. The simple instructions on how pull adjustments are actually made appear in the owner’s manual. Aage seems to know when or if that will happen. There is also a distinct possibility the expanded drawing of the bolt assembly will never appear anywhere except in these pages.

Its Massachusetts manufacturer is particular to extremes when it comes to their rifle bolts. Whether rimfire or centerfi re, each one is individually fit to its receiver then headspaced. A

Savage TRR-SR Schematic Notes The section of the drawing showing a break down for the Accu Trigger has been eliminated since no internal parts are available from Savage Arms or in the aftermarket. Parts 1AA through 21 (e-clips) are sealed inside the trigger housing. The balance of the rest of the parts list starts at the back end of the rifle and works its way forward.

Iron sights have been listed but do not appear on the TRR-SR variation featured here. 12R Cocking Piece 12Q Cocking Piece Retaining Pin 12W Hammer 12X Hammer Engagement Pin 122 Hammer Bushing 12V Main Spring 12Y Main Spring E-clip 12G Rear Bolt Body 12K Front Bolt Body 11G Firing Pin 33 Extractor Savage bolts are not interchangeable. They even wear the same serial number of the rifle to which they’ve been married.

As a result, a Savage rifle that happens to come your way missing its bolt must be returned to the factory for anew one. No exceptions. Like more and more Savage long guns, the TRR-SR features the firm’s Accu Trigger. All any gunsmith or owner has a genuine need to know about these highly successful innovations is how to adjust them for weight of pull.

Those instructions 33A Retaining Clip 32 Cartridge Guide 20 Receiver 21 Recoil Stud 52 Barrel Pins 16B Rear Sight 16D Rear Sight Elevator 25 Barrel 17B Front Sight 18 Stock 19A Guard are described in detail within the owner’s manual of any Savage rifle wearing one. There are absolutely no individual replacement parts available for Accu Triggers. I’ve never come across one that required any but if I had I knew the only repair possible would be a complete assembly. Again, no exceptions.

However, for those of you who have a deeper interest in exactly how the Accu Trigger works, all the details are revealed in my December 2004 American Gunsmith article dedicated to the subject.

Savage TRR-SR (Speci cations subject to change without notice) 19B Guard Screws 19D Take Down Screws (10>15 in/lbs) 19I Magazine Plate 19H Magazine Plate Screw 7 Magazine Latch Guide 23 Bolt Guide 59 Spacer 19K Magazine Housing Studs (40 in/lbs) 19K Barrel Stud (Do not remove) 13A Magazine Housing Place the safety on, remove the magazine, inspect for an empty chamber, protect your eyes and turn the rifle upside down. A 9/64-inch Allen wrench backs out the two stock mounting screws (19D).

Separate the stock from the barreled action. Pull back firmly on the trigger, slide the bolt to the rear and remove it from the receiver. That’s really as far as you have to go before performing a basic clean up on a TRR-SR but this is the right time to bring up a few more things. There are three studs, all identifi ed as

19K, holding more components to the receiver. You never mess with the 19K stud which seems affixed to the barrel. It happens to be a key element in locating and securing the barrel to the receiver and is cross pinned in place. Start cranking on it and you’ll ruin both the stud and the receiver. Prepare your large vise for action by padding up its jaws. I hope you have a automotive ignition kit. If so, get ready to use its 5/16-inch open end wrench.

If not, I recommend you venture out to an auto supply store and buy a kit. No open end 5/16-inch knuckle buster of standard thickness can do what the ignition wrench lets you do. Secure the rear bolt body (12G) between the vise jaws. Some of the pressure from the Main Spring (12V) has to be relaxed a bit by uncocking the cocking piece (12W), a/k/a hammer. This used to be a two-piece unit but is a single piece now. Squeeze and pull the back end of the hammer until you can rotate the part counter clockwise. Hang on.

Don’t lose control guiding the cocking piece pin (12R) into the notch as indicated. The bolt is now uncocked and the main spring somewhat relieved. Only somewhat, though. Remove the rear bolt body from the vise. Replace it with the front bolt (12K). A small blade screwdriver gets slipped under one side of the firing pin/extractor/cartridge guide retaining clip (33A) between the clip and the underside of the front bolt body.

Carefully push the blade in to spread the clip away from bolt contact, then carefully work it upward until the clip can easily be flipped off. The firing pin (11G), extractor (33) and cartridge guide (32) can now be slid forward and out of the body. Don’t get the guide and extractor mixed up. Mark with a "G" and "E" if necessary to ensure this doesn’t happen. Set the front bolt plus its associated parts safely aside..

Move to a clear enough place on your bench so you can make up an important small tool you’ll be using very soon to push back the mainspring far enough for it to be clear of its e-clip (12Y). The tool can take a couple of forms. One is a six to eight inch length of thin, fl at stock with a hole equaling the diameter of the hammer’s front shaft. The easiest to fabricate, and I think to use, starts out as a thin blade screwdriver.

Grind or fi le a "U" shape in the blade large enough to span the front shaft of the hammer. It will end up looking like a two-tine dinner fork. Pick up the ignition wrench. With the bolt rear secured back in the vise, grasp the bolt handle and pull it to the rear until the hammer bushing (122) is exposed. Engage the bushing with the wrench and get it moving a little. Just loosen the bushing and do not remove it yet.

Once you feel sure you can turn off the bushing all the way with only your fingers, put away the wrench until reassembly when the bushing has to be retightened on the shaft. Pick up the two-tine dinner fork you made. It can be pushed in between the mainspring and the e-clip prior to pushing the spring back far enough to get a hold on the clip with smooth, parallel jaw pliers and pull it off. The little dinner fork still has some work to do controlling the main spring and prevent a flight to who knows where.

And I, for one, am not taking a chance. A small, cardboard box or plastic bag might come in very handy before, during and after popping off the e-clip don’t you think? Anyway, if you haven’t lost control of the spring you can ease off any pressure still being applied, slide it forward and out, finish undoing the hammer bushing and remove the now-gutted front bolt body from the vise. The rear bolt body has a fairly large hole on the side opposite the bolt handle.

With all that was stopping you from doing it now gone from the bolt, grasp the hammer and start to slowly pull it to the rear. Slowly is good, slowly is wise because there is a small roll pin very near the cocking piece (12R). It’s the cocking piece retainer (12Q). You can’t push it out until it’s visible through the fairly large hole just mentioned. Until you have everything out of the front bolt body there’s no way to get at the pin. The main spring’s in the way.

Once the pin has been removed, the cocking piece can be pulled out. Note the channel milled in its midsection. It’s there to accommodate the retaining pin. During reinstallation, alignment of that pin hole and that channel is critical, folks. Two studs (19Ks) are the keys to getting at the magazine latch group. The studs are turned in to 40 inch pounds. Break them loose starting with the rearmost stud and complete removal with your fingers. Lift off the spacer (59) then the bolt guide (23).

The magazine latch guide pulls out to the front, the front magazine housing (13A) to the rear and the Accu Trigger housing is retained by two screws. One more thing: If you need to remove the recoil lug (21), it is also turned in to 40 inch pounds and its thread contact secured with 242 Loctite. Make certain those threads receive a light application of the same blue fluid upon reinstallation. Loose recoil lugs make for major problems in any rifle. I really have to add something about the two barrel pins (52).

They’ve been match drilled during factory assembly, cannot be re-used and must be replaced with over-size pins. Savage is no longer offering these larger pins to the public and "repair" means the whole match drilling process has to happen all over again. You know what comes next? Right. the gun is going back to Bo Sox land where all that fancy, expensive equipment exists to "get ‘er done." Finally, one last reassembly tip.

When reassembling the retainer clip, cartridge guide, firing pin and extractor to the front bolt body install the firing pin first, then the clip. Insert the guide and extractor between the bolt body and clip by their pointed/tapered ends. The distinct hook on the extractor and the slight hook on the guide should be positioned inward. Alternately and gently tap—do not "drive"—the two parts in until the clip snaps audibly in place. AG