Build a Recoil-Pad Grinding and Fitting System

Whenever possible, I try to build the tools and fixtures I use in the gunsmithing trade, and I often find myself dreaming up a tool to make a particular job easier or more precise. One of my favorite homemade tools is used for a job we’re frequently asked to do’installing a recoil pad on a rifle or shotgun. All of the materials used in my recoil-pad fitting and grinding system (see Figure 1 ) are readily available at almost any hardware store or home center.

The mounting base of the pad-grinding fixture (Figure 1, Detail B) is cut from 1/4- x 1-inch flat bar, with holes drilled and tapped as needed to fit your particular pad. The toe of the base is rather small to give clearance on very small pads. The two brackets (Figure 1, Detail C) are cut from 1/8- x 1-inch steel. The bottom of the brackets are sloped upward to give clearance on small pads. Don’t weld the brackets on at this time.

Also note that you should avoid using galvanized steel where welding is required, because of the toxic fumes. The upper and lower barrels shown in Figure 1 are cut from 1/4-inch blackiron pipe, and are welded to the two 1/4-inch barrel ends that are sandwiched between the base brackets. A 17/64-inch clearance hole is drilled near the end of the upper and lower barrels for the Allen-head lock-screw assembly. The back of three 1/4-inch nuts are "fish-mouthed" so they will lie flat against the side of the barrels.

The lock screws are coated with an anti-seize compound and are installed in the nuts so they protrude through the nuts and into the clearance holes. The nuts only need to be tack welded on each side. After the welding, the two barrels are chucked in the lathe and drilled to their full length with a 3/8-inch extension bit. At this time, align the two side brackets for the mounting base, and drill with a #21 bit and tap with 10/32 tap.

The near bracket should be opened up with a #10 drill for clearance and countersunk for the 10/32 flat-head bolt. The brackets are assembled with the bolts and the barrels and clamped into position, and then tack welded to the mounting base, taking care to get the base at a right angle to the barrels. Chuck the upper 3/8-inch extension rod in the lathe and drill and tap for 10/32. The lower extension rod has a flat section of 1/4-inch material welded to the end and is drilled with a 1/ 4-inch bit.

The adjusting rider for the upper and lower rods is made from a short section of 1/4-inch pipe with the nut welded as before. Two sections of steel are cut out and match drilled and bolted together with a 1/4inch bolt and are welded to the 1/4inch pipe. I was lucky to find a 1/2-inch ball with a 10/32 screw already mounted to it, but one can be made by welding two nuts together and shaping the bottom contour in the shape of a ball. You might have to chuck the upper

shaped pieces. Purchase a 2-1/2-inch shop-vac hose adapter to be installed in the bottom of the funnel. Mix up a batch of Bondo and put a generous amount around the adapter to form a dition and to true the face. I made two plates so I wouldn’t have to remove the sanding disks. I use Brownells 8-1/2inch pressuresensitive disks in 60 grit and 220 grit. and lower extension rods in a lathe and reduce the OD slightly to get them to slide freely in the barrels.

I built the pedestal grinder shown in the photo many years ago, so for this project I only had to adapt the accessories for recoil-pad fitting to it. The steel for the face plates (see Figure 2) is 1/2-inch sheet from the scrap yard, flame cut 3/8 inch oversize, ground down to the approximate size, and final turned in the lathe. (Flamecut steel is death to lathe tools). Find the center of the faceplate and drill a pilot hole and then enlarge it to the size you’re going to use for the arbor.

Cut a section of 1-1/2-inch round stock slightly longer than needed and face both ends. Then center drill, pilot drill, and drill to the final dimension. Turn a 45-degree bevel on the end to be welded to the face plate. Drill and tap the hub for an Allen screw to lock the hub to the arbor. Before welding, insert a tight-fitting rod through the hub and faceplate to Recoil Pad Grinding Fixture Figure 1. align the two holes, then clamp and weld.

I removed the arbor and mounted the faceplate in it and turned the OD, then faced both the front and the back to avoid an out-of-balance con- Figure 2. For the vacuum funnel ( Figure 3 ), you can use aluminum flashing or sheetmetal from a heating and air conditioning shop, bent up to form two U- Figure 3.

seal. The two U-shaped pieces are coated where they overlap with tub & tile sealer and squeezed around the adapter and clamped at the top on each side and clamped around the shop-vac adapter. You’ll have to work quickly and mix the Bondo up last because it sets up very quickly. Fasten both of the sides of the funnel by drilling and "pop" riveting the overlap and also around the shop-vac adapter. A hinge is mounted on the right side (back) and a hood is formed to cover the top of the assembly.

I found this necessary to contain some of the grinding dust that gets slung off the top of the faceplate. The Simms Limbsaver pads seem to be the worst offenders. Notice the dotted lines in the center of the funnel (Figure 3). This a bracket welded on to the grinder to mount the funnel. Two 1/4-inch bolts protrude through from the back side of the bracket (top and bottom) and act as locator pins that match up with two holes in the back of the funnel. The unit is held in place by along weak spring.

This funnel does such a good job that almost no cleanup is required after the job is completed, and a dust mask is not really necessary, although I still wear one when I use the fixture. What I call the "overarm fixture" is shown in Figure 4. The base under the socket is cut from a 1/4inch section of steel. The socket is welded to it and a 1/4-20 nut is welded near the top as per previous instructions. A 1/4-inch bolt with a "crank" handle welded to it completes the assembly.

The upright bracket has a section of 1-1/ 4-inch pipe welded at the top with a 1/4-inch nut and clamp bolt inserted. The overarm has a section of steel, 1/8 x 1 x 2 inches, welded to the bottom of the overarm and a 5/8-inch nut welded to the end. A slot is cut in the nut to allow the grinding-fixture ball to slip into it. The 1/8-inch steel under the nut is drilled and countersunk to allow the grinding fixture to be free to pivot and turn in any direction. Figure 4.

This project does require a bit of work, but it can be constructed over a period of time as your schedule permits. You’ll find the ease and precision of this system is well worth the time spent constructing it, and the cleanliness of the system is an added bonus. In a future article, I’ll demonstrate fitting and installing a pad on a shortened synthetic stock. I